Came down from Middle Palisade yesterday. Almost no snow up to the glacier. We used crampons to cross the glacier. The bergschrunds start to open up. All snow on the route could be avoided on 3rd/4th class rock.
Went up to the first lake (forgot the name). Postholing on the slope after the stream-crossing was pretty bad, but a party of 4 ahead of me had done most of the plowing. They went up to Finger Lake.
Thinking about heading out to Williamson/Tyndall over New Year's. Has anybody been in that area recently or anywhere comparable who would have some information on the snow? We hoped to get along without snowshoes.
This was last weekend from the top, there are a bunch of climbers on climber's right of the lower snow patch. There were 20+ people on the peak that morning.
Yes, I vaguely remember that, the thread is actually shown under "related posts" below, it was last year. But we found this axe on pitch 7 or so, so intentional stashing seemed very unlikely.
Just came down from Bear Creek Spire. The North arete still has a bunch of snow on it, e.g. the belay ledges on the first pitches. Snow gets pretty postholey in the afternoon, especially on the descent to Dade Lake. Snow starts at Gem Lakes. Water is accessible at Dade Lake. We also found an ice axe...
we were up there (Split Mtn) the last weekend of April. Water was accessible at Red Lake, pretty much no snow up to there. We climbed the North slope and we found only about 500ft of snow which mandated the use of crampons. Even that could have been bypassed by scrambling at the side. From there to ...
For east buttress on Whitney we brought: radios (very useful on the climb) 70m rope Alpine harness 2 Metolius offset cams (orange/yellow, yellow/blue) BD cams (1x0.3-3, doubles in 0.75 and 1) 2/3 of a set of nuts and 1 hex (used only for a few placements) 10 double-length slings (probably too many) ...