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Punta Emma - Piaz route
Route

Punta Emma - Piaz route

 
Punta Emma - Piaz route

Page Type: Route

Location: Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.46030°N / 11.64500°E

Object Title: Punta Emma - Piaz route

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: V inf (UIAA)

Number of Pitches: 6

Grade: V

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Gabriele Roth, Lupino

Created/Edited: Sep 25, 2005 / Jan 12, 2009

Object ID: 166892

Hits: 5758 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Overview

Punta Emma is the northern spur of Catinaccio main summit but most consider it as a separate summit (2610 meters). 
A view from Gardeccia - the...
A view from Gardeccia - the Catinaccio wall, Punta Emma and Vajolet
.
It is quite famous among climbers for its two classic routes: the Piaz and the Steger.
Haven't climbed the Steger, I can say that the Piaz should be the best choice here, a little more difficult than the other one but fine and amusing:
about 200 m - 6-7 pitches with difficulties not sustained.
The route was opened in solo by Tita Piaz in 1910 !!!

Approach

From Gardeccia by a confortable path reach the Refuges Preuss and Vajolet. Along the path from Refuge Preuss to Refuge Re Alberto I° you can easily see the starting of the big crack that can be reached crossing for about 100 m to the left and scrambling for some tens metres. 
Punta Emma
On the trail to start

Route Description

 
Punta Emma - via Piaz -...
follow the red dots ...
 
N-NW face
The way to descent

Ascent
Scramble (II-III) to the beginning of the big crack till a comfortable ledge.
Straight along the vertical crack (IV), 2 pitches - in the second one there is the key passage of the route (V).
Now you must climb on the left side of the crack, along steep slabs that become easier - 2 pitches.
To the left some metres and then straight on to the summit.

Descent
Coming down is not difficult (II°) but requires 1 rappel :
Go along the W ridge till the saddle between Punta Emma and Catinaccio.
Now, scrambling (traces of passage and cairns) till the starting point of the rappel - 25-30 metres.
From here in a little time you can get the path leading to the refuge

Essential Gear

50 m long rope and some carabiniers.

Photos

 
1st pitch
The start
 
1st pitch
1st pitch
 
2nd pitch
2nd pitch
 
2nd pitch
2nd pitch
 
2nd pitch
2nd pitch
 
3rd pitch
3rd pitch
 
3rd pitch
3rd pitch

Images

Punta EmmaNE face - Piaz\'s crackPunta Emma east face1st pitch3rd pitchPunta EmmaN-NW face
2nd pitch1st pitch2nd pitch2nd pitch3rd pitchPunta Emma east facePunta Emma - via Piaz -...