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10160 Hits
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75.81% Score
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6 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.46030°N / 11.64500°E |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.7 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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V inf (UIAA) |
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Number of Pitches:
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6 |
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Grade:
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V |
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Overview
Punta Emma is the northern spur of Catinaccio main summit but most consider it as a separate summit (2610 meters).
A view from Gardeccia - the Catinaccio wall, Punta Emma and VajoletIt is quite famous among climbers for its two classic routes: the Piaz and the Steger.
Haven't climbed the Steger, I can say that the Piaz should be the best choice here, a little more difficult than the other one but fine and amusing:
about 200 m - 6-7 pitches with difficulties not sustained.
The route was opened in solo by Tita Piaz in 1910 !!!
Approach
From Gardeccia by a confortable path reach the Refuges Preuss and Vajolet. Along the path from Refuge Preuss to Refuge Re Alberto I° you can easily see the starting of the big crack that can be reached crossing for about 100 m to the left and scrambling for some tens metres.
On the trail to startRoute Description
follow the red dots ...
The way to descentAscent
Scramble (II-III) to the beginning of the big crack till a comfortable ledge.
Straight along the vertical crack (IV), 2 pitches - in the second one there is the key passage of the route (V).
Now you must climb on the left side of the crack, along steep slabs that become easier - 2 pitches.
To the left some metres and then straight on to the summit.
Descent
Coming down is not difficult (II°) but requires 1 rappel :
Go along the W ridge till the saddle between Punta Emma and Catinaccio.
Now, scrambling (traces of passage and cairns) till the starting point of the rappel - 25-30 metres.
From here in a little time you can get the path leading to the refuge
Essential Gear
50 m long rope and some carabiniers.Photos
 The start |  1st pitch |  2nd pitch |  2nd pitch |
 2nd pitch |  3rd pitch |  3rd pitch |
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