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Punta Emma
Mountain/Rock

Punta Emma

 
Punta Emma

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.44720°N / 11.64050°E

Object Title: Punta Emma

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 8563 ft / 2610 m

 

Page By: mvs

Created/Edited: Jun 30, 2011 / Jul 3, 2011

Object ID: 725594

Hits: 2585 

Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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Overview

 
Goodbye to the cirque
Punta Emma is the massive rock on the left side of the U-shaped gully.
Punta Emma is a northern spur of the main Rosengarten peak, but deserves it's own page. It's treated as a summit by climbers because of at least 4 amazing classic rock climbs on it's flanks. It's only when you reach the top that you see across a gap the towering North Summit of Rosengarten and realize you hardly did anything. Still, the routes average 10 pitches in length and make for a fine half day.

Getting There

 
On Punta Emma
Typical climbing on Punta Emma, the Vajolet Hut below...
From Rifugio Vajolet or Prueß (humorously sitting 20 paces away from the first hut), the Punta Emma dominates the view on the west side. Choose one of several routes to reach the top, described from left to right:


  • Fehrmann - IV, ~10 pitches. On the far left, generally straight up. The grade is not that difficult, but the climbing is sustained in the lower pitches.

  • Steger - V+, 11 pitches. A fantastic climb, starting with an easy ledge traversing up from right to left to reach steep ground just right of the Fehrmann route.

  • Piaz - V, 6 pitches. A very good and classic climb with a difficult chimney pitch.

  • Eisenstein - VI, ~10 pitches. I need to find more information on this, but this route looks very good from a picture I've seen.

Getting down

From the summit, follow the West Ridge gently down about 30 meters (cairns). The ridge steepens, and cairns lead you more steeply down the north side of the ridge for a bit. At an apparent "dead end," you need to downclimb about 8 meters of grade III to reach a ring bolt abseil station. From here, make a 25 meter rappel into the deep notch between Punta Emma and the main Rosengarten peak. Now downclimb the gully easily (II) towards the trail from the Vajolet Hut and the Vajolet Spires. In June there may be snow and moats in the gully, but by scrambling on the side you can avoid unpleasant contact.

Images

Our route in the middleA topo of the "Steger" on Punta EmmaA look at the spires from the Vajolet HutTraversingAt the summitOn Punta EmmaPete on pitch 5
The RosengartenspitzeEnd of pitch 6Pete on Punta Emma