Route from Valentin Törl

Approach

On Valentin Toerl

You reach Eduard Pichl Hütte (1959 m) or Rif. Lambertenghi-Romanin either from the northern side (Wolayer Tal) or the southern side (Collina). From Wolayer See you take the marked route towards Valentin Törl, 2138 m (30 min). You can reach Valentin Törl also from the East, through Valentin Tal. If coming from Wolayer See, you can deter towards the north wall even before Valentin Törl and so detour the point 2193 m, standing between the saddle and the north wall.

General Information

Hohe Warte massif from the north

This is the older of two ferratas which lead on Monte Coglians / Hohe Warte from the north. It is called also Koban-Prunner Weg (while the new, more difficult one is called Weg der 26er). It's a great north face route, following the most natural, easiest passages on that side of the mountain. However it's beginning is not protected, until the difficulties rise to climbing above UIAA II level.

• Altitude to do: 780 m (from 2138 to 2780 m).
• Difficulty: Free clibing up to UIAA II degree and easy ferrata of B/C degree. If rated on the SAC Hiking Scale, the rating would be T5/T6. Many exposed parts.
• Objective dangers: Friable rocks in the ravine below summit ridge, snow rests in early summer.
• Orientation: Some attention needed before entering the wall, from Valentin Törl. Then easy, all the time well marked.
• Time for ascent: 3 h.
• Face orientation: Towards the north, the summit ridge towards the west.
• Gear: Good shoes and poles. For less experienced a short rope might be valuable. In early summer crampons and ice pick.
• Best season: Summer and autumn (from mid July till October).

Route Description

Hohe Warte

Below the Valentin Törl (on the western side) you will find a marked path towards Hohe Warte walls. When it reaches below the wall, the path branches. Our route goes towards the left, immediately after entering the wall requiring climbing up to II. degree. The first meters require absolute safe step and easy climbing, because the route crosses more and more towards the left, above the high abysses. That part is very exposed. But the route is all the time marked. After some 100-150 meters the route becomes secured with ropes, because the difficulties arise above the II degree.

Above the secured part you reach the middle part of the wall - a debris traverse to the right (west). There from the right the more direct "Weg der 26er" (ferrata) joins. After this the route climbs over steep rocks and a narrow, steep ravine again and is well secured (becomes a ferrata). You soon reach the west summit ridge, where you turn left. The last section goes all the time by the ridge, it only detours by the right side one ridge tower. This part of the route is well secured and very panoramic. Already from the distance you hear people ringing the "Bell of Peace" on the summit. Very beautiful and worth climbing! 

It is best to descend on the southern side, where the Italian normal route is much easier and then to keep right and descend further down to Rif. Lambertenghi-Romanin by the Spinotti route.