Monte Coglians/Hohe Warte is a very popular mountain in the area of the Carnic Alps, one of the main goals of this alpine group. Since a couple of years ago there were two main options to climb this summit: the normal route from south, much frequented in the summer months and the difficult alpinistic ferrata on the mighty north face. Then the austrians decided to change the first part of the old route of the WWI on the "nordwand" ( that was only partly secured and can still be climbed ) and to build a new modern ferrata, very difficult and challenging.
They did a fantastic job, this route will certainly became famous among the many vie ferrate of the Eastern Alps. Very few handles and rungs, no ladders or other helps: a very good test for your climbing skills. After the new very demanding section the route follows the old ferrata which is easier but much more rewarding for the spectacular views, especially when it crosses the western crest of the mountain. This via ferrata requires the proper gear, alpinistic experience, great strenth and endurance. Time required: 8 hours.
From Rifugio Tolazzi ( from Forni Avoltri take the road to Collina ) take the marked path n° 144 to Rifugio Lambertenghi-Romanin and passo Volaia/Wolayer Pass. From the hut cross the Pass and take the path on the right side of the lake that goes towards Valentin Torl.
Be careful to turn right before the notch ( indications in german ) and then follow the path until you reach the base of the north face ( 2 hours ).
Unlike the most of the vie ferrate this one is very selective since the beginning, with several exposed passages on a vertical rocky edge. After that you have to cross a very smooth inclined slab, where there aren't holds, that requires great concentration and strenth in the arms.Then the climb continues vertically trough dihedrals, slabs and chimneys, always very challenging ( without iron ropes UIAA III/IV ). After all this effort you'll reach the big terrace called "il tetto" ( the roof ), where you'll meet the old route and you'll enjoy an amazing view of the main summit of Monte Coglians. The second part is a medium/hard ferrata that goes up first straight to the western crest and then crosses it to the top of the mountain.
It's a fantastic and very exiting ride on this knifeblade ridge with unbelievable views to all directions. On the summit you'll find the famous bell that you can proudly ring after your "exploit". The panorama is fantastic: all the Carnic main ridge, the Hohe Tauern group, the Dolomites, the Julian Alps, the Adriatic sea, the Istrian peninsula…
The descent follows the normal route trough the huge southern ravine that divides the mountain from its east summit and takes you directly to the beautiful Rifugio Marinelli, where you can relax for a while drinking a beer or a coke. From the hut take the path n°143 to Rifugio Tolazzi.
This is probably the best route in the Carnic Alps, because it can satisfy every kind of alpinist, even people that is usually against vie ferrate.