ApproachWe did this route in the year (extreme hot ) 2003.
You start at the valley Klein Scheidegg and walk up to the Guggi hutte, 2791 m. This is a small nice cabin without a guardian in the pre-summer time. If you arrive, start with exploring the rest of the route in daylight, direction Monch.
Start with this route in the period with good conditions, april-june.
Route DescriptionNext day, start early and follow the cairns you made the day before marking the way. Climb over slab rock, make a long horizontal traverse to the left (N).
Up to the Monchplateau. Follow the firnfield up. Keep left.
Go over the bergschrund and start iceclimbing.
Start at the left side from the icewall, it's going straight up, 80-60 degreeds. Only for two/three pitches, than you will find better ice and less steep (50 degreeds) conditions. Climb up for another more pitches and than you can go:
1)to the right were you meet the rockridge and follow it to the left.
2)or you can go more up left in the wall to the pre-top.
Here you scramble a little, and walk over a very small and steep iceridge(SW) and follow the terrain (NE) to the top. Go down the normal route. Monschjochhutte 3650 m. is a place to sleep.
Essential GearTwo technical icegear, crampons, rope (50 m is fine) some icescrews, nuts, food for the night at the cabin. You find there mattress, water and blankets and wood-firestove.Pay for the night!! Keep it clean!!
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Bernese Alps Groups
