Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.03010°N / 119.3814°W |
Route Type:
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Multi-Pitch Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.9 |
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Approach
Use the same approach used for 'Elephant Walk'. The start to 'Wandering Taoist' is located 40 feet to the left of 'Elephant Walk', heading up a steep slab (black oak tree branch just underneath the first bolt).Route Description
Keeping with the standard of steep slab climbing, 'Wandering Taoist' is the creme' de la creme' of commiting slab climbing. Thin, sustained, nerve-rattling.....runout! With only 6 bolts in 180 feet, this classic 5.9 line must be taken seriously. In 1986, the route became the topic of discussion after a young climber lost the use of his legs, following a leader fall into a black oak tree at the base of the route! Don't let the guidebook topo fool you.....the route continues to be sustained at 5.9 well above the crux (the second bolt of the first pitch). Slab skills or hospital bills.....!!Pitch #1:
Ascend the open steep slab straight up and slightly left, following a line of bolts (6 total). The first crux is located between the second and third bolt (slight buldge). The remaining part of the 1st pitch is fairly sustained. Locate a two bolt achor (one bolt w/ hanger and one "eye bolt") and belay here (150').
Pitch #2:
Although this pitch is rated 5.6, the overall length is fairly runout (3 bolts span 150'!). Head straight up over the anchors and follow up over a slight buldge (90' above the belay). Continue till a large ledge with a three bolt anchor is located (the right side bolt....1/4" buttonhead....should be considered suspect!). Belay here.
Pitch #3:
This pitch is fairly short and can be taken one of two ways. The first way can be taken straight up above the anchors (a recent bolted variation). This variation follows a line of 6 bolts. The crux is above the first bolt (5.8). The original line heads up and right toward some small left facing shallow corners (fairly small pro, if you choose!). The first bolt is located just below the first left facing corner. Continue above to the next left facing corner and then past 3 more bolts (5 bolts total for the route). Both routes end at the same anchors (hanging belay, 110 feet).
Pitch #4:
From the anchors, head straight up to a left leaning crack (the end to the 'Tollhouse Traverse' (5.5). The crack can be protected by a #3 Metolius Tri-Cam or small Aliens. Head above the crack onto a somewhat featureless slab, following 3 bolts along the way. Finsh the route after the 3rd bolt by heading up and left to a two bolt anchor, atop a stately ledge (115' feet).
Finish by scrambling up a 3rd class crack/groove to the top of Tollhouse Rock.
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Essential Gear
+ 60 meter rope+ (7) Quickdraws
+ Slings (for the belays_
+ Pro to 3/8"
robojeda - Mar 9, 2008 3:10 am - Voted 10/10
Pitch 2Hey Dave, We rebolted pitch 2 and replaced the 3/8 manky button at the first belay. The whole climb is now bomber. BTW pitch 2 has three bolts not four. Hope you guys are doing well. Bummer you couldn't make it to Alabama was looking forward to your Patagonia pics. Take care, Rob
Dave Daly - Mar 14, 2008 1:55 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Pitch 2I'll make the change on the route page for P2. Yep, last minute trip plans. Patagonia was blast. I'm going to ask Patrick to allow me to set up a movie/slide show (almost 25 minutes in length) for the Dome Rock event....after Todd does his thing. Stay tuned.