Amphetamine Grip

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.36680°N / 121.13631°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Additional Information Time Required: Less than two hours
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)
Additional Information Difficulty: R
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 3
Additional Information Grade: II
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Overview

A classic alternative to Super Slab, "The Grip" shares the same 1st pitch of Super Slab then goes straight up for some great climbing with some good run outs.

FA: Steve Strauch & Danny Gates 1971

Getting There

Follow directions to Super Slab. Amphetamine Grip shares the first pitch.

Route Description

P1 - 5.5 - 100ft - Follow the first pitch of Super Slab to a belay on the huge ledge with double bolts.

P2 - 5.7 - 100ft - Scramble up easy rock to the left facing arching corner that forms the left side of a large feature. Climb the crack wich arches to the left then gain a small ledge with an old fixed piton. Set a belay with small aliens and nuts. Or set a belay a little lower with large cams.

P3 - 5.7R - 90ft - Head straight up off the belay on run out terrain there is a possible flake to sling, climb up a little more to where you can get a cam then mak a leftward traverse towards a blank white corner after the traverse plug some cams in the solid pod and run it out the the belay wich is 2 solid glue-ins atop the white corner.

Essential Gear

Cams to 3"
Nuts

External Links

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Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.