OverviewGeographical structure: Eastern Alps > Julian Alps > Triglav group.
Rz is not very important peak in the east ridge of the highest mountain in Slovenia Triglav, (2864m). It is located in the ridge between Triglav and Rjavina, (2532m). It is absorbing mountain on the east side of the famous hut Kredarica (2515m) and it is interesting that on its summit you cannot climb over the marked route but you must climb a bit hard ridge. You can reach all the main mountain in the neighbourhood of Rz over the marked routes and ferratas but on Rz you cannot climb in easy way. The easiest and normal approach on Rz goes from the Kredarica hut. You follow the marked route on the hut Dom Valentina Stanica (2332m) over the north slopes of Rz below the north face of Rz and on the suitable place you turn right and you climb on Rz. The climbing is around UIAA II on some places.
The photos of Rz on other pages.
Rz is on north located above the huge plateau Kotel. This plateau is the top of the eastern part of the huge north face of Triglav. On the right side of plateau and on the NE side of Rz is the hut Dom Valentina Stanica located. From Dom Valentina Stanica goes the marked route on the pass Dovska vratca (2254m) that is between Rjavina and Rz. From the pass Dovska vratca you can observe the wild east ridge of Rz. On the south side of Rz is another huge plateau named Rzki podi where goes one of the many marked routes there. More to the west from the plateau Rzki podi is the small peak called Vrh Snezne konte (2342m) and between this summit and Rz is the small basin Kalvarija and Zleb where goes the normal tour skiing route on Kredarica. It is dangerous because of avalanches that come from the south slopes and face of Rz. From the top of Rz goes another ridge in the west direction that comes over the summit Kredarica (2541m) on the hut Kredarica and then continues on the Mali Triglav (2725m) and Triglav (2864m).
View from RzFrom Rz we can enjoy in beautiful view on mountains of whole Julian Alps. If we are on the top of Rz in nice weather in Summer we will be alone but on the neighbour Triglav we will see a column of climbers.
The map of Triglav group.
The heart of the region is Kranjska Gora resort town, 84 kilometers from the Slovenian capital Ljubljana. But you must drive from Kranjska Gora to Mojstrana and then to Vrata valley, which is the main starting point for approach on Rz.
The second possibilty goes from the Krma valley and then over the south slopes to the hut Kredarica. Long but very beautiful!
The valleys are described on the Triglav page.
For the broader overview, see the Julian Alps page and the page of
Planinska zveza Slovenije: Julian Alps - Triglav, 1:20000.
Planinska Zveza Slovenije: Julian Alps - Eastern part, 1:50000.
<--- The map of the nearness of Rz. You can see the Rz on the right side of the map.
Routes OverviewThe starting point for the approach on Rz is the Slovenian highest hut Kredarica that is located on the ridge between Triglav and Rz. For approaches to Kredarica hut you check the page of Triglav where the whole approches are very well described.
Normal approach: From The hut Kredarica you follow the marked route to the hut Dom Valentina Stanica below the north face of Rz and on the suitable place you turn to right and climb on the west ridge of Rz and over it to the top. More detailed description.
Red TapeNo limitations but Rz is located in the Triglavski Narodni park so you must be kind to the nature and other beauties
When To ClimbThe best time for reaching Rz is snowless season because in Winter time is this serious climbing ascend. In snow season are very popular the south and north slopes for tour skiing.
HutsIn the nearness of Rz you can sleep in many huts. I named some of them:
Triglavski Dom na Kredarici (2515m) (Triglav Hut on Kredarica) is largest and highest lying hut in Slovenia. It is placed just above the pass between Kredarica (2540m) and Triglav (2864m). It was built by Slovenian mountaineering society in 1896 behind the idea of Jakob Aljaz. Since then it was resized many times. Today’s look is from 1984. In 1992 chapel was erected next to the hut. Every hour its bell rings. Later another object was erected next to the hut. It is open during whole year because it is also a meteorological station. In winter season it is partially supplied but meteorologists always prepare some hot meal and tea. It has 300 beds, 5 dining rooms and is still overcrowded in summer. It also has cold water, power generator and GSM public phone. Due to open spaces around and high lying position, view from the hut is extraordinary. Huge Triglav only obscures it towards west.
Dom Valentina Stanica pod Triglavom (2332m) (Valentin Stanic Hut Below Triglav) stands on the small head at the edge of Kotel basin and above steeply falling Kot valley. Beside Planika and Kredarica it is third ‘Triglav’ hut. First hut on this location was built in 1887 by German-Austrian Mountain Society. In 1961 new and enlarged hut was reopened. Hut has 136 beds, cold water, power generator etc. Hut also has beautiful view towards Triglav, which from here shows its very powerful side. Hut is open from beginning of July till the end of September.
Aljazev dom hut (1015m) is placed in Vrata valley. It is accessible by car, 12km from Mojstrana village, which lies on the main road from Ljubljana to Kranjska Gora resort. It was opened in 1896. In 1909. the hut was destroyed by avalanche. New hut was opened the next year where it stands today. It has 150 beds and is open from beginning of May till the end of October. Winter room has 8 beds. From the hut view is beautiful on the peaks around the valley, which rise wildly above it and especially on Triglav and its North face.
Kovinarska Koca v Krmi hut (870m) stands on the edge of Zasipska planina meadows in Krma valley. Hut was opened in 1948 in renewed shepherd’s house. In 1959 new hut was opened. In 1983 freshly renewed hut was reopened. It has 27 beds, water, electricity etc. From the hut is nice view on the peaks surrounding Krma valley, which are rising wildly above it. Hut is open from beginning of June till the end of September.
CampingCamping inside the Triglav National Park is forbidden. Beside the mountain huts there are plenty of hotels and private apartments in the towns and villages, which surround the area. Here are few links where you can find info on accommodations closer and further away:
Mountain ConditionsMountain conditions in Julian Alps are well known, thanks to Kredarica (2515m) hut and meteo station, which is below the Triglav.
You can observe current conditions and forecast for Kredarica on the Wunderground meteo site. Here is direct link to Wunderground - Kredarica page.
Some weather informatin can also be found here.