Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
46.38243°N / 7.87681°E |
Route Type:
|
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing |
Season:
|
Summer, Fall |
|
Time Required:
|
Most of a day |
|
Rock Difficulty:
|
5.9 (YDS) |
|
Number of Pitches:
|
18 |
|
Grade:
|
III |
|
Overview
The route follows the prominent ridge line over five towers to the main summit.Getting There
The most convenient start is from Stockhorn-Biwak. From there follow marked climbers trail uphill and to the west for about 20 min (cairns). Climb rock sections to gain access to the South ridge. Approximately 30 - 40 min from bivouac to rope-up point, depending how well you find your way...Route Description
1st Tower: 4 pitches (4, 4+, 2, 5)Rap down 20m to notch
2nd Tower: 4 pitches (5-, 5-, 3, 3)
Rap down 10m to notch
3rd Tower: 1 pitch (4)
Downclimb to base of 4th tower (3+)
4th Tower: 1 pitch (4)
Bypass 8m below tower summit on left (western) side to abseil station (equipped). Rap down 30m to notch (caution about your rope here).
5th Tower: 5 pitches (6-, 3, 6-, 5+, 3+)
You then follow the almost horizontal ridgeline for 60m (one step UIAA 3).
Further along the ridge for 3 easiy pitches (4-, 3, 3+) to the summit.
Essential Gear
Route is well equipped, bolts and old pitons in difficult sections. Take slings, a good selection of cams to protect in other sections of the climb.Boots necessary for descent via east ridge.