Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.60140°N / 8.43260°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering, Mixed |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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AD (AD+ in winter conditions) |
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Approach
You can start from the Sidelenhütte or the Albert-Heim Hütte. From the former it will take you half an hour, from the latter 2 hours.Route description
The Schildkrötengrat or West-Ridge is a nice ridge with some very exposed pitches. The technical difficulties are not to high (UIAA: III-IV) except for the Klagemauer (VII-A1) which can be done using aid climbing. Furthermore many pitons and bolts are present.
Attack the wall from the North side, under the first (West) tower. You will find a bolt on your left-hand side. The first pitches can be very icy in winter conditions, so you will need crampons
After the first pitch you can either climb the tower on the right or climb the ridge to the left. The actual route is quite easy to find (bolts) and most pitches are not really difficult. Only the klagemauer (Wailing wall), a short technical 5m climb, is quite hard for a free climb (UIAA VI) and can be done artificially.
Some pitches at the end can be done simultaneously.
The whole climb should take you 2-3 hours.
Essential gear
-Rope: 50m-slings
-some medium sized friends
-8 draws
for the approach in winter and early spring crampons and an ice axe can be usefull.
Links on the web
Sidelen-hütteAlbert Heim-hütte