OverviewThis is a beatifull though small mountain near the Furkapass in Switzerland. It's the smaller brother from the Gross Bielenhorn. Both mountains are separated by the Untere Bielenlücke. The towers Gross and Chli Kamel are also present on this page, they are located between the Gross and Chli Bielenhorn. Chli Bielenhorn is sometimes spelled Chly Bielenhorn, chli/chly means little.
Climbing can be done on the beatifull raw granite in grades ranging from UIAA II to V. A ski ascent is possible from the N-side in winter.
Getting ThereYou can get to the base of the mountain from the Furkapass (2h from parking Galenbödmen)). The biggest town in the vicinity is Andermatt. The Furkapass is on the road form Andermatt to Oberwald in central Switzerland.
Approach is possible from the Albert-Heim hütte (1h from Tiefenbach town on the Furkapass) or from the Sidelenhütte (1h from Hotel Belvedere on the Furkapass).
Red TapeNone at the moment, the Furkapass however is closed from november till may.
When To ClimbBest time july, august, september and if the weather permits, october. If the snow has melted early june is also possible.
Ascent on skis in the regular ski-touring season.
Camping & SleepingRealp Camping (1510m):
Open in from june till september.
Open from mid-june till mid-october. Reachable from the Furkapass in 1h.
Albert-Heim hütte (2542m)
Open from mid-june till mid-october. Reachable from the Furkapass in 1,5h. Winterroom is available.
EB, 15 min. from the Untere Bielenlücke. Used for descent.
W-Grat or Schildkrötengrat
Very nice alpine rock tour for beginners. Difficulties don't exceed III but for a few meters A1. Start in the scharte/divide between the ridge and the first ridgetower as seen frow W. Famous for the rock in the form of a turtle balancing on a ridgetower, hence the name.
S-Wand, variante Bächli
First ascent: H. Bächli, R. Hugentobler & D. Kienast, 1966.
The route follows a double dihedral. Entry is 20m left of the dihedral.
S-Wand, variante Perrenoud
V+, A0/VI-, 4h.
First ascent: Mottet & Perrenoud, 1957.
Entry on the crack that leads to a chimney. Few artificial passages.
Visit the Albert-Heim hütte (2542m) website for topos. Follow 'Sommer' and 'Klettern' links.
This is the E tower.
V+, A2, 3 pitches.
Descent: 40m abseil on N-side.
This is the W tower.
IV-V-, 4 pitches
Descent: 20m abseil.