Sass da Ciampac

Mountain/Rock

Sass da Ciampac

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Dolomites, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.56390°N / 11.83630°E

Elevation: 8766 ft / 2672 m

Page By: kletterwebbi

Created/Edited: Feb 16, 2004 / Dec 6, 2006

Object ID: 152329

Hits: 2724

Page Score: 88.87% - 11 Votes

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Table of Contents

In Memory of Stefan "kletterwebbi" Weber

In Memory of Stefan "kletterwebbi" Weber

A note from the SP staff
Stefan Weber, the member we all used to know from his climbing pseudonym kletterwebbi, died on May 28th 2004 in southern France at the age of 37.

Stefan joined SP early on in 2002 and contributed a number of excellent pages and routes to this site. He was an accomplished climber excelling in difficult alpine and technical routes. The Dolomites, especially the area around Gröden / Val Gardena were special to him, as it was his old ancestral home.

kletterwebbi was always willing to share his knowledge and experience with other climbers, mainly here on SP, but also on other sites. He contributed his IT expertise as webmaster of his local section of the German Alpine Club, where he also engaged in leading trips for fellow members. Besides his climbing and mountaineering activities he was a musician, a composer of contemporary music. Stefan will be greatly missed by us all.

This page will be kept in honor of kletterwebbi, one of SP's most talented, knowledgeable members, and without a doubt, one of our greatest fellow mountaineers.

The picture was taken on the summit ridge of Lyskamm.

Overview

The Sass da Ciampac is a prominent summit NW above Colfuschg/Corvara at the dolomites. The mountain has two different views: a harmless NW flank where the normal route goes up and a big, steep S face with difficult climbing routes. From the summit there is a fantastic view to the Sella-group at the south and the Geisler/Puez-group at the north. East of the Sass da Ciampac the Sass Songher (2665 m) is one of the well known hiking summits around Corvara. West of the Sass da Ciampac there are the both Tschier-Spitzen/Pizes da Cir (2692 m), an other often visited summit from the Grödner Joch/Passo Gardena. Escpecially the little Tschier-Spitze with it's Via ferrata sees a lot of visitors. North of the mountain the Crespeina-lake forms a beautiful landscape.

The normal route is an easy, often done hike on a good, marked trail at the NW-flank (no climbing). This route is also the common descent. From the Grödner Joch/Passo Gardena hike up to the Tschier-Joch via the Rifugo Clark (closed in summer). From there folloe the path to the Crespeina-Joch. At the Crespeina-Joch the path splits into two directions. Taking the right trail will bring one up to the summit of the Sass da Ciampac. It may take about 2-3 hours from the Grödner Joch/Passo Gardena up to the summit.

Getting There

Trailhead for the Sass da Ciampac is the the Grödner Joch/Passo Gardena in any cases. The Grödner Joch/Passo Gardena can be reached easiely from different sides by car. From Bozen (Bolzano) drive to St. Ulrich at the Grödnertal (Val Gardena) and continue to the col. From south (e.g. Trento (Trient)) travel through the Val di Fassa, head up the Pordoi-Joch, reach Arabba and then take the road over the Passo di Campolongo to Corvara/Colfuschg and continue to Grödner Joch/Passo Gardena. Also from Cortina d'Ampezzo travel to Arabba -> Passo di Campolongo -> Corvara/Colfuschg -> Grödner Joch/Passo Gardena.

For the S-face trailhead is the Grödner Joch/Passo Gardena too. There is marked trail from this to Colfugsch, called "Colfuschger Höhenweg". Start at the Grödner Joch/Passo Gardena and follow the trail for 1/2 hour through forest and meadows (very beautiful landscape). After this a little clearing is reached where the S-face is fully visible. From this point go up to the bases of the different climbs.

Red Tape

None

When To Climb

Summer (may through october)

Camping

There are different campsites at Canazei, Campitello, St. Ulrich (Ortisei) and at the Fassa-valley. From Cortina d'Ampezzo (3 campsites) it is a lonmg way to go to the Sass da Ciampac.

There are a lot of hotels (from cheap up to very expensive) and holiday flats at the area.

Mountain Conditions

Meteo Alpin

Routes

There are different routes at the S-face of the Sass da Ciampac. In general one have to reach the base of the S-face as described in the "Getting there" section. From the base of the face scrumble up above boulders and grass to the start of the climbs. The three described climbs all are starting close to the prominent eastern gully where the bented chminey of the S-face route is clearly visible. The Via Adang starts somewhat more east of this gully (bad visible climbers path).

Via Adang: UIAA 5, 6 hours, 450 m height, 11 pitches with a very demanding crux, F. Pospischil, G. Adang, G. Nagler, 1903. Often done, start early to avoid crowds.

S-face: called "Geschweifter Kamin" (bent chminey), UIAA 4-5, 5 hours, 450 m height. First climbed by E. Gerhard and A. Reither in 1910. Good rock, the most used route in the past, seldom done now.

S-face ridge: UIAA 6, 8 hours, a variant to the S-face route above. There is a ridge left (W) of the bent chimney from above which is used by the route. Seldom done, first climbed by N. Cattaneo and A. Cwcchetti in 1935.

Guide book & Map

Anette Köhler, Norber Memmel; Dolomiten, Genussklettereien III-VI, Rother Selection, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München, ISBN 3-7633-3001-1
Map: Tabacco, Map 05 "Val Gardena & Alpe di Siusi"

What's new

2004-05-10: added Latitude/Longitude (Thanks to Gangolf Haub for this information)

Images