Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
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41.72732°N / 23.36912°E |
County:
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Bulgaria |
Activities:
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Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Mixed |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Elevation:
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8255 ft / 2516 m |
|
Overview
Sinanitza northeast wall "Ilinden" route
Sinanitza northeast wall "classic" route
The normal route east ridge.
The north wall of Momin vruh - Sinanitza is on the right side and cannot be seenSinanitza is situated in the southwest part of north Pirin mountain.The peak is with the shape of a cone with a huge crack on the top and can be seen clearly from every other part of the mountain,dominating,not because of its altitude,but because of its shape.The south side of Sinanitza is a steep grass-covered slope that descends for a thousand meters to the deep valley of Sandanska Bistritza river - the lower parts of it are covered with forests.The north side represents the peak's wall (230 meters high),that goes down to the gorgeous Sinanishko lake with the Sinanitza hut at its coast.The west side is a wide but very steep,rocky ridge,that further turns north.The east side is a narrow ridge,that connects Sinanitza with Momin vruh and further with a saddle.Exactly this ridge - from the east saddle to the peak is the normal route.Like allmost all bulgarian peaks,Sinanitza is not so difficult in good summer conditions,when there is no snow or ice.You just have to be carefull where you are steping and nothing more.Temperatures during the summer (between middle of june and the beggining of october) are usualy around 15-25 degrees celcium,and in a storm can drop to 5.Tottaly diferent expirience will be a winter ascent.There can be a serious avalanche danger and you must be able to take a wise descidion about the snow condition before starting the ascent.Despite of that,the narrow ridge,wich is so acceptable in the summer,can be a chalenge in winter and the temperatures can be between 0 and minus 25 degrees celcium.Still,a winter ascent is much more satisfying and beautiful in my oppinion :-).There are some brilliant views from the summit to the lake down below,to all Vihren marble ridge and to other Pirin peaks.
The name Sinanitza means in bulgarian The Blue Peak.There are some other (old) names - Razcepenia vruh (The Cracked Peak),Varovitata chuka (The Limestone Rock),that describe it even better....
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
The normal route starts from Sinanitza hut (2240m.)First it climbs easy for 30 minutes to the east saddle.From there is the narrow ridge to the peak - 45 minutes.Be carefull in winter conditions and try not to step on the north side of the ridgeline - there usualy are some big cornices.
There are no other tourist routes to the summit,so if you want to try other way - the other way is the wall.Sinanitza wall is about 230 meters high,it is not too difficult and it is much better to be climbed in the winter,when the rock is not loose.The bad thing is that the approach from the hut to the wall (20 minutes) is avalanche dangerous,so be mindfull...There are two main routes on the wall - the climb of both is pure pleasure.The first is "Classic" (4c+ 5.6) and the other is "Ilinden" (4a 5.5)For the routes on the wall ......................... you will need a rope 40-50m.\11mm.;10-15 rock pytons and about 15 carabiners.Both routes are four ropes long.The place is not one of the most popular in bulgarian mountains,so is most likely that you will not see other climbers on the wall - there are usualy not more than three or four climbs per winter.The wall was first climbed by two bulgarian climbers in the year 1949.On the normal touristic route in the second half of the winter the snow becomes very hard (firn) so you will need the usage of crampons.