ApproachSee Main Page: South Side, Refuge de Couvercle
Route DescriptionBooks: Eberlein #1131; Goedeke s.185; Griffin 2#65
First Ascent: 7.8.1876 H.Cordier, Th.Middlemore, J.Oakley Maund, J.Jaun & A.Maurer
Mixed, III, mostly easier, 600m, 3½h, 6-7h from Refugio de Couvercle
Relatively - serious
Route description (thanks to mamo!)
From refuge de the Couvercle, catch up the glacier of Talèfre by the track that it crosses towards and down the morainic 's steps . To go back it towards DOPING and then towards the contour line 3000m turning DOPING in direction of the East spur . To catch up the binding of the oblique corridor toright that cuts this last spur . To go back it (200m, 45° of average), and earns the arete. Or to exceed the spur and to climb the great slope of the Les Droites's pass being kept itself the most possible neighbors to cliffs of the same spur , in order then to follow left back (climbing) the first or the second ascent ramp corridor that allows to approach the spur and (solution easy, better if the oblique corridor is in bad conditions).
- To continue in oblique to right and scaling easy full of rocks terraces (max II°) until the base of the difficulties of compound and cliff.
- To continue large way towards right (being climbed) in order to exceed this barrier of approximately 100m. towards a large wall rossastro, than one lets on the left. Sequences do not obligate to you.
Over a snow slope is caught up (45/50°) that allows to earn a snow arete that leads to the feet of I lock full of rocks summit. To go around it to right, and finally with a length of easy compound, is arrived in point (locks full of rocks).
Configuration and route type comments :
The two accesses to the buttress, from the oblique corridor, and the great slope of the Les Droites's pass(+ easy) become dangerous for rolling stones from the late morning.
Specific equipment :
Some "friends" small medium measure /, nuts and accessory cords and "fettucce".
Route description (descent) :
On the ascent route, where series of anchorages for abseils from25 are present . Avoid the oblique corridor to the afternoon and the great slope of the Les Droites's pass in the late morning (rolling stones 's danger ).
Material for ice.
Essential GearComplete Alpine Equipment: On the Droites no gear is in place.
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