Southeast Ridge

Approach

The Southeast Slope is most often used when approaching from the east via Robinson Lake. Approaches from the west can simply take a direct line up the South Slopes to the summit. Take the Robinson Lake Trail from Onion Valley. The trailhead is located at the eastern end of the campground - it is poorly marked with a sign that simply says "trail", and you have to walk through one of the campsites to even find the sign.

From Robinson Lake, head soutwest towards the Sierra Crest and University Pass. The terrain is morraine boulder fields that are steep in places and very tedious. Think twice before humping a loaded pack over University Pass! As you approach the crest there are several options. University Pass is the easier, though longer route. It is quite steep on the east side, less so on the west side. The shortcut variation described by Secor is indeed shorter, but steeper. This variation is about a 1/4 mile north of University Pass.

If you are descending the route, it is located at the lowest point between University Peak and Peak 3926m. In late summer it is a very loose sand and talus slope - watch for sending rocks down on those below you.

Route Description

Once on the Southeast Ridge, navigation is fairly straightforward. Follow the ridge northwest to the summit blocks. If you stay on the ridge proper, the scrambling will exceed class 3 - drop lower onto the South Slopes when difficulties are encountered. Near the top, the true summit is to your right - the left side leads to the Northwest Ridge and University Shoulder which has been mistaken by some for the summit. There are numerous use trails through the sandy slopes on the Southeast Ridge, some actually going to the summit. You may find these helpful to make the sandy ascent less troublesome. The descent on this slope is much more fun. If possible, climb the North Face and descend via the Southeast RIdge.

Essential Gear

In early season and usually through mid-summer there is snow in both couloirs (University Pass and the Shortcut Variation) and ice axe and crampons are a must.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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