ApproachSee the Mithril Dihedral approach description.
Route DescriptionStar Trekkin shares the first few pitches of Mithril Dihedral before busting left onto a clean splitter on the face, about 20 feet left of Mithril Dihedral.
P1: up the left facing corner to top of the pedestal (200 feet, same as Mithril). 5.7
P2: Continue up the perfect hand crack in the corner. Where Mithril heads right, keep going straight up towards a small roof. About 10 feet below the roof, step left into another crack. Pull some 5.10 and belay about 20 feet above the roof at hanging belay.
P3: Continue straight up the perfect splitter for almost a full rope length. Extra green, red and yellow camalots may help 5.9+.
P4: There are two options here as the crack forks. You can take either the left fork or the right fork. The Patitucci photos (c.f. Black Diamond catalog, cover of Sierra Supertopo guidebook), the dude is climbing the right fork. However we had read a TR where the author climbed the right fork, and found it to be 5.11 sketch -- he recommended the left fork. So we went for that. It ended up being kinda flakey with some 5.10 OW. We had a #4 camalot and 2 #3.5's and leapfrogged them. It was probably the crux for us. This pitch ends on the ridge, where easier climbing leads to the summit.
P5 - P6: 5.5 up the ridge, use your mountain sense to find the best way.
2x set camalots to #3.5
Optional extra green, red, yellow camalots.