Torre di Lavina

Overview

Torre (=tower) di Lavina is sited on the main ridge of the Gran Paradiso Group; it is divided in two summits : South 3308 m. and North 3274 m. and being quite isolated it appears as an elegant pyramidal mountain both from south and north. Its profile is well recognizable both from Torino and Canavese area; in the meantime it is a privileged viewpoint, since from its summit you can see all the north-west sector of the Alps, the west part of Padana Plain and, in a dry and sunny day, the Ligurian and Tuscan Apennines.
Its two southern sides belongs to the Piedmontese Soana Valley while the northern one to the Aostan Valley of Cogne. Three ridges slope down from the summit: to North towards Acque Rosse pass, to SE towards Cadrega pass, to SW towards Bardoney pass.
Three ridges slope down from the summit:

to Bardoney pass (towards SW)

to Cadrega pass (towards SE)

to Acque Rosse pass (Northwards): just after Torre di Lavina a secondary ridge starts, ending with Punta di Acque Rosse 2952 m, that delimits, together with the principal branch, the secluded Vallone di Acque Rosse.

All its slopes are included in the Gran Paradiso National Park.
On its ridges and walls the climber can find nice routes on a solid rock (gneiss) while the hiker can’t climb without difficulties; for further details see “Routes” section.
First known ascent: 1856 by P.B.Chamonin and P.Chanoux.

Getting There

By car

SOUTH SIDE:
From Torino. Road “S.S.460” to Cuorgnè, Pont Canavese, then turn right
and drive along Soana Valley as far as Ronco Canavese; from here there are
two possibilities:
1) to climb the E side you can continue to Valprato Soana and then turn
Campiglia Soana
2) turn left and drive along the wild and deep valley of Forzo up to the
small village of Molino di Forzo.

From Milano: Highway A5, take exit “Ivrea” and follow the road SS n°460
towards Ceresole Reale as far as Pont Canavese. Then follow the previous
itinerary.

NORTH SIDE:
From Torino, Milano: Highway A5, exit in Aosta Ovest, follow the sign
“Valle di Cogne”, drive along the valley up to Lillaz.

From France: through Mont Blanc Tunnel (or Petit St. Bernard Pass). It
isn't necessary to enter in motorway A5, you can drive through SS.26 Aosta
direction. Before arriving at the village of Sarre, follow the sign and
turn right towards Valle di Cogne.

From Switzerland: through the Grand St. Bernard Tunnel or the homonym
Pass). Drive to Aosta, then follow Courmayeur direction on SS.26. Just
after Sarre, turn to the left, in the direction of Valle di Cogne.

By train/bus
North side: railway station at Saint Pierre, then bus to Cogne/Lillaz. See: www.regione.vda.it
South side: local train “GTT” from Torino to Pont Canavese, then bus to Ronco and Valprato Soana.

Nearest Airports: Milano 164 km; Torino 63 km; Geneva 169 km

Routes

None of the routes to Torre di Lavina is easy.
The easiest route starts from Campiglia Soana and has a few easy rock passages with some danger of fall of stones.
Level difference: 1958m
Difficulties: PD-
Itinerary: from the car parking of Campiglia Soana (1350) follow a track to Azaria Plan; at the end of the plan take the path that cross Grange Barmaion 1651, baite Araman 1722, baite Tenson 1859, baite giardino del Rancio 2152 m., baite del Rancio di Sopra 2240 m. At 2740m the path split in two, take left and get to Colle di Acque Rosse 2947, climb an easy stoned slope up towards the base of the large colouir, reach the pass 3245 and follow the final ridge up to the summit (around 7hours).

Moreover there are two very interesting easy climbing routes:
1) SSW wall – De Petro route
Level difference: 948 m from Davito bivouac; 1691 from Lillaz
Difficulties: PD+
Itinerary: from the small village of Molino di Forzo (1178m) follow the track to Davito bivouac, crossing the small villages of Boschietto (1461) and Boschiettiera (1486). The bivouac is an ideal base for this climbing route. From the Bivouac (2360m) walk towards Bardoney Pass for 30 minutes, then turn right and across the slope to reach the base of the SSW wall; on the wall there are three parallel spurs, go over the first and attack the central one. Climb along the spur (III+) on an very solid rock and easily summit. 4h 30’ from the bivouac.
Descent by SE ridge and Cadrega pass or along the colouir parallel to the spur.

2) SW ridge usually called Bardoney ridge
Level difference: 948 m (from Davito bivouac)
Difficulties: AD
Itinerary: from Lillaz (1617m) or Davito bivouac (2360m) walk towards Bardoney pass, then easily reach the ridge in correspondence of a fork soon after Punta Lavinetta (3016m). Follow the ridge (III, IV+) up to the S summit (3308m). 10 hours from Lillaz, 8 hours from the bivouac.
Descent: to Lillaz by N ridge, to Forzo by SE ridge and Cadrega pass.

Huts

Huts
There aren’t guarded huts useful for the routes to Torre di Lavina; at the base of SW wall there is the small Davito bivouac 2360m.

When to climb

Due to the snow, winter is inadvisable. The best period is June to October.

Red tape

Within the borders of the PNGP (Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso) dogs generally are not allowed, except on a pair of trails, and camping is forbidden (except above 2500 m from sunset till dawn). No fees are due.
Further details at P.N.G.P. official site.

Books and maps

Books:
Guida dei monti d'Italia di E.Andreis,R. Chabod, M.C. Santi GRAN PARADISO ed. TCI

Maps:
Enrico editori Ivrea 1/50000
IGM 1/25000 f. 42, tav. Valprato Soana
IGC 1/50000 Gran Paradiso

Mountain conditions

Weather forecasts:
Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta
Piemonte
Webcams of Ronco, Piamprato and Forzo.

External links

GULLIVER: trip reports (only Italian).
ValleSoana.it: everything about Soana Valley, including ski-touring, climbing, hiking (only Italian).
Forzo Valley is one of the climbing paradises of Gran Paradiso Group.

Images

View Torre di Lavina Image Gallery - 43 Images