Overview
 | The Tower of Towers, so climbers call this summit. It is the last southern limit of the south branch (Cantoni della Busazza) of Civetta Group It is joined to Castello della Busazza by a short ridge arriving to the "forcella Cozzi" (first climber of this summit in 1910). Two deep gorges are the boundaries of the tower. I think that nobody can feel at ease on this giant rocky structure (rising for 700m over the screes), just approaching it or simply giving a look it you can understand that getting the summit will be a fight : it is, I think, the most difficult and challenging summit of the Dolomiti (not only for technical difficulties). No easy route to gain the summit : first climbers arrived there descending from Castello della Busazza till forcella Cozzi and then climbing the last section on dangerous and difficult rock Coming down requires a long series of rappels, .
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Getting There
Road ApproachStarting from Belluno, follow the valle Agordina : Agordo - Listolade.
A route on the right can bring you till capanna Trieste where you must start walking.
Walking approach
From Capanna Trieste a wide path leads in about 1,45 hour to Rifugio Mario Vazzoler , from where all climbs start.
Routes overview
Two not extreme routes along the gorges allow to reach the Forcella Cozzi, they are both Difficult (IV) and not safe for rock quality and falling stones during storms.Here the most classical routes :
West edge - via Tissi-Andrich-Rudatis - a wonderful and serious climb, the easier of the classic routes (more difficult than Via delle Guide to Crozzon di Brenta) - it is classified TD (V - 1 pitch of VI) but in Civetta group there is a strange way to estimate difficulties
- about 700 m drop - using the variants Couzy-Schatz the routes become even finer
here a fine page (in italian) about the route (with a good photo)
South wall - via Carlesso-Sandri - classic extreme route - 750 m drop - 1100 m develope - 37 pitches - ED (VI) - the lower part (about 150 m) can be avoided crossing by a ledge
here a fine page (in italian) about the route (with a good photo)
further info from the web (found by Mathias Zehring)
New route "Donnafugata" on the south face of Torre Trieste, explored by famous Italian climber Christoph Hainz with Swiss Roger Schaeli, finished after 8 days of work during summer on September 8th 2004.
26 pitches, UIAA VIII / 7a / A2
South-west wall - via Boga (Dell'Oro-Giudici-Longoni) - extreme route ! rarely climbed, at the beginning ot '70s no one knew where it was
South-west wall - Piussi-Redaelli - 750 m drop - ED (VI-A3) - 450 metres of the wall are leaning out !
South-east edge - Cassin-Ratti - classic and often climbed route, perhaps the "best seller" here - 600 m drop from the lower ledge - ED (VI)
here a fine page (in italian)
here a good page in French
Coming down is 600 m drop, 900 m develope - requires 9-10 rappels - along the eastern gorge/wall
When To Climb
From May to October with good conditions of rock and, of course, of weather !
Sometimes it happens that a bivouac gets necessary...
Camping
No need, Rifugio Vazzoler can host you ...but if you don't want to spend money you can carry a small tent and put it in the meadows along the path.
Hut
Rifugio Mario Vazzoler m. 1714 on Col Negro di Pelsa, C.A.I. Conegliano - Open from 15-06 to 20-09 - email vazzoler@email.it - Phone +390437721278RIFUGIO VAZZOLER
Meteo
DOLOMITI METEODOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it
Guidebooks and maps
“Civetta” by Ivo Rabanser – Collana CAI-TCI Guide dei Monti d’Italia, june 2012
