Welcome to SP!  -   
 
 New features are here! - Read More... 
Areas & Ranges·Mountains & Rocks·Routes·Images·Articles·Trip Reports·Gear·Other·People·Plans & Partners·What's New·Forum

Torre Trieste
Mountain/Rock

Torre Trieste

 
Torre Trieste

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno (Veneto), Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.35940°N / 12.04530°E

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Aid Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 8064 ft / 2458 m

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: Apr 21, 2004 / Oct 22, 2008

Object ID: 152549

Hits: 9651 

Page Score: 88.48% - 18 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

The Tower of Towers, so climbers call this summit.
It is the last southern limit of the south branch (Cantoni della Busazza) of Civetta Group

It is joined to Castello della Busazza by a short ridge arriving to the "forcella Cozzi" (first climber of this summit in 1910).

Two deep gorges are the boundaries of the tower.

I think that nobody can feel at ease on this giant rocky structure (rising for 700m over the screes), just approaching it or simply giving a look it you can understand that getting the summit will be a fight : it is, I think, the most difficult and challenging summit of the Dolomiti (not only for technical difficulties).

No easy route to gain the summit : first climbers arrived there descending from Castello della Busazza till forcella Cozzi and then climbing the last section on dangerous and difficult rock

Coming down requires a long series of rappels, .



Getting There

all climbs start from rif. Vazzoler - 1714m :

starting from Belluno, follow the valle Agordina : Agordo - Listolade.
A route on the right can bring you till capanna Trieste where you must start walking


Routes overview

Two not extreme routes along the gorges allow to reach the Forcella Cozzi, they are both Difficult (IV) and not safe for rock quality and falling stones during storms.

Here the most classical routes :

West edge - via Tissi-Andrich-Rudatis - a wonderful and serious climb, the easier of the classic routes (more difficult than Via delle Guide to Crozzon di Brenta) - it is classified TD (V - 1 pitch of VI) but in Civetta group there is a strange way to estimate difficulties
- about 700 m drop - using the variants Couzy-Schatz the routes become even finer
here a fine page (in italian) about the route (with a good photo)

South wall - via Carlesso-Sandri - classic extreme route - 750 m drop - 1100 m develope - 37 pitches - ED (VI) - the lower part (about 150 m) can be avoided crossing by a ledge
here a fine page (in italian) about the route (with a good photo)

further info from the web (found by Mathias Zehring)
New route "Donnafugata" on the south face of Torre Trieste, explored by famous Italian climber Christoph Hainz with Swiss Roger Schaeli, finished after 8 days of work during summer on September 8th 2004.
26 pitches, UIAA VIII / 7a / A2


South-west wall - via Boga (Dell'Oro-Giudici-Longoni) - extreme route ! rarely climbed, at the beginning ot '70s no one knew where it was

South-west wall - Piussi-Redaelli - 750 m drop - ED (VI-A3) - 450 metres of the wall are leaning out !

South-east edge - Cassin-Ratti - classic and often climbed route, perhaps the "best seller" here - 600 m drop from the lower ledge - ED (VI)
here a fine page (in italian)
here a good page in French

Coming down is 600 m drop, 900 m develope - requires 9-10 rappels - along the eastern gorge/wall

When To Climb

from May to October with good conditions of rock and, of course, of weather !
Sometimes it happens that a bivouac gets necessary ....

Camping

no need, Rifugio Vazzoler can host you ...
but if you don't want to spend money you can carry a small tent and put it in the meadows along the path


Images

Torre Trieste summit section...Torre TriesteTorre Trieste - spring visionMonte CivettaTorre Trieste from Moiazza...Le pareti sud-ovest della...
Torre Trieste - this is the...Torre Trieste - parete...La Cima della Busazza e la...La parete sud-ovest e il...La parete sud-ovest della...Torre Trieste in the...
[ View Gallery - 3 More Images ]



"Here's the minority vote."   --Bill The Butcher   

© 2006-2012 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.