OverviewSnow and ice climb moderate to easy in good weather conditions.
It requires a 5 miles approach in the backcountry.
Once out there you are in very isolate wilderness area, very beautiful, but also very serious in winter; help may be hours away or a full day.
Avalange is a serious danger...see pictures
Getting ThereTake Route 73 form Keene to Lake Placid, turn left on Adirondack Loj Road.
Start hiking at the Adirondacks Loj, in the direction of Marcy Dam, once there proceede to Avalange Lake, once at the Lake cross it, since in winter is completely iced, the Trap Dike is on the left.
It is a 5 miles approach in the backcountry.
Route DescriptionThe start of the climb can be a very deep snow cone, but the angle is very moderate. On the fisrt pitch, there is the first ice bulge, the second is farther up, about half way in the Dike.
The climb keeps following the show cone, at above two third of the lenght of the Dike there are two ice flow more or less 70ft, on the right (WI3+ maybe) witch allow to exit on the main icy slab early. A safer way is to continue in the Dike for an half hour more and exit on the slab thru a snow bridge.
Once on the main slab, depending on weather conditions, the ascent can follow any line up to the top of Mount Colden. Protection here can only be a snow picket or a short 10 CM ice screw on the icy patches found on the route; small trees can be slinged too. On the main slab wheater condition can be very treasherous, I climbed it with 80 miles per hour winds and -40. In those conditions a lost of balance if unprotected can mean sliding down with serious injuries or death.
Once on the top of Mount Colden,the descend line can follow the standard trail(longer route); or you can bushwhack in the woods below the Col and with a few rappels you are again back at the base of the Dike.