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Trap Dike-Winter

Trap Dike-Winter

Trap Dike-Winter

Page Type: Route

Location: New York, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.13122°N / 73.96683°W

Object Title: Trap Dike-Winter

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Winter

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Easy in good conditions

Number of Pitches: 13

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: climbxclimb

Created/Edited: Jul 8, 2006 / Apr 8, 2007

Object ID: 205900

Hits: 15510 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Snow and ice climb moderate to easy in good weather conditions.
It requires a 5 miles approach in the backcountry.
Once out there you are in very isolate wilderness area, very beautiful, but also very serious in winter; help may be hours away or a full day.
Avalange is a serious danger...see pictures

Getting There

Take Route 73 form Keene to Lake Placid, turn left on Adirondack Loj Road.
Start hiking at the Adirondacks Loj, in the direction of Marcy Dam, once there proceede to Avalange Lake, once at the Lake cross it, since in winter is completely iced, the Trap Dike is on the left.
It is a 5 miles approach in the backcountry.

Route Description

The start of the climb can be a very deep snow cone, but the angle is very moderate. On the fisrt pitch, there is the first ice bulge, the second is farther up, about half way in the Dike.
The climb keeps following the show cone, at above two third of the lenght of the Dike there are two ice flow more or less 70ft, on the right (WI3+ maybe) witch allow to exit on the main icy slab early. A safer way is to continue in the Dike for an half hour more and exit on the slab thru a snow bridge.
Once on the main slab, depending on weather conditions, the ascent can follow any line up to the top of Mount Colden. Protection here can only be a snow picket or a short 10 CM ice screw on the icy patches found on the route; small trees can be slinged too. On the main slab wheater condition can be very treasherous, I climbed it with 80 miles per hour winds and -40. In those conditions a lost of balance if unprotected can mean sliding down with serious injuries or death.
Once on the top of Mount Colden,the descend line can follow the standard trail(longer route); or you can bushwhack in the woods below the Col and with a few rappels you are again back at the base of the Dike. 
Trap Dike

Trap Dike

Essential Gear

Ice tools, Short Ice screws(10 cm),Snow pickets, slings,rope, carabiners.

External Links

Add External Links text here.


Adirondacks, Trap DikeAvalange on the Trap DikeFirst pitchComing up the slideUpper DikeEntering the Diketrap dike
My awesome beard on the summitTrapAdirondacks, Trap DikeBack at Marcy DamAvalange on the Trap DikeOn our way to avalanche lakelooking toward the summit
[ View Gallery - 6 More Images ]