The route starts from the Almagellerhut. It is an attractive, modern hut situated below the S side of the Dri Horlini ( you can do some sportclimbing there ). Tel 027 975 11 79. How you can reach this hut ? Well you drive to the town of Saas-Algamell and in the beginning of the last town of the Saas-Valley there is a parking area at your left side after crossing a little bridge. It is situated between two hotels. It is about 5 CHF a day. From here the path starts climbing trough the forrest on the E side of the valley. After climbing about 400 Mh you will cross a bridge in wood and at this point you are about 1 Km from the "Stafel" ( mentioned at the map, I used it once as a bivouac, it was a shelter for cattle I suppose). A little bith further you'll pass the Almagelleralp hotel 2194m. Follow the path upstream and keep on it when it turns left into the Wysstal. The Almagellerhut wil be visible as the slope relents. Time to get there : 3 1/2 Hr.
Start from the hut, down the stairs en follow the direction of the "Zwischbergenpass" (mentioned on a big rock , yellow arrow). You can't miss, there are everywhere "cairns" and red and white signs to follow. At about 1 à 1 1/2 Hr you'll reach the Zwischbergenpass, there you'll turn left towards the SSE-ridge of the Weissmies. Follow the ridge till you reach a continuous, triangular snow slope ahead. We started at the beginning of that snow slope 3500 m climbing up the ridge.You can do the ridge without a rope if you feel confident, it isn't so difficult. Follow the ridge till you reach a snow slope. Cross this snow slope that change into a snow ridge and leads to the rocky forsummit. After that the summit is in sight over a snowridge for about 60 m.
For the descent you take the SW-ridge down (slope max 35°, steepest part of the way down). There is a lot of traffic coming up.There is a trench leading down, you can't miss. In bad conditions it could be very dangerous for route finding and because the glacier isn't a friendly one with a lot of deep crevasses.It takes about 3 1/2 Hr to reach the summit and another 2 hours to go down. When you reach the Hohsaashut you can take a gondala lift ( 21 CHF) back down to Saas-Grund and from here it is about 4 Km back to the parking area in Saas-Algamel. Maybe you can take the bus but I did it on foot.
Rope (We always take a double rope with us but it isn't necessary you can use a single rope of 20-30m)
Some slings ( For the rock ridge)
Glacier rescue material
Some ice screws
Map SAAS 1329 1:25000
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