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Trift Glacier to Triftgrat (Normal)
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Trift Glacier to Triftgrat (Normal)

 
Trift Glacier to Triftgrat (Normal)

Page Type: Route

Location: Valais, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.13430°N / 8.01220°E

Object Title: Trift Glacier to Triftgrat (Normal)

Route Type: Mountaineering

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: PD Snow / Ice to 40 degrees

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Fred Spicker, Moni

Created/Edited: Mar 2, 2005 / Dec 9, 2007

Object ID: 164162

Hits: 7172 

Page Score: 75.12%  - 6 Votes 

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The WeiWeissmies from Hohsaas (the NW).
From the NW. Part of the trail on the route across the glacier is visible

Overview

 
Normal Route,  Weissmies
There can be steep spots



Though it is not the easiest way up the mountain, this route has long been the normal way from the Weissmies Hut and since the building of the cableway to Hohsaas is certainly the most climbed route on the mountain.

The route is called by several different names. Goedeke calls it the North-West Face and West Ridge in his guide. Now days, many people refer to it simply as the Normal Route.

Taking the gondola to Hohsaas removes about one hour of hiking from the time taken from the Weissmies Hut and makes it possible to climb the peak in one day from the valley. There are overnight accommodations available at the Bergrestaurant Hohsaas for those who wish to get an early start.

Approach

 
Walking up along the normal...
Approaching the glacier




There is a well established trail to Hohsaas from the Weissmies Hut - time about one hour.

There is also a cableway to Hohsaas.

From Hohsaas, there is a trail and ramp (almost a road) to the edge of the glacier.

Route Description

Trift Glacier to Triftgrat Route
Weissmies Normal Route from Hohsaas


From Hohsaas, the route climbs about 1050 meters and takes 3 to 4 hours to the summit.

Cross the Trift Glacier on a flat section above the icefall and large crevasse field to the shoulder leading to the West Summit. Climb this almost to the West Summit and bear climber's left to the saddle on the ridge. Unless there is new snow, there will almost certainly be a good track to follow.
 
Weissmies north face, you can...
Parties on glacier
 
The normal route to the top...
Climbing through the crevasses
 
Snow Bridge, Trift Glacier, Weissmies
Climbing through the crevasses


From here, follow the ridge (cornices) to the summit.
 
Nice cornices, almost on the...
Summit Ridge
 
Picture was taken on...
Summit Ridge
 
300Hm left to go at Weissmies WNW-Flank
Summit Ridge

As with any glacier and snow /ice route, conditions vary from year to year and by time of year. Later in the season crevasses present more of a problem on this route, and recently guides have placed ladders and bridges to facilitate crossing some of the worst of these.
 
When we climbed the mountain...
2003
 
Crevasses on the Hohsaas side...
2003

Essential Gear

Glacier travel gear.

Images

Snow Bridge, Trift Glacier, WeissmiesTrift Glacier to Triftgrat RouteNormal Route,  WeissmiesWeissmiesWalking up along the normal...View to the weissmies at the...On the route below West Summit