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Mountains & Rocks
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Mountains & Rocks



Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Valais, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.13430°N / 8.01220°E

Object Title: Weissmies

Elevation: 13198 ft / 4023 m


Page By: om, Lodewijk, Silvia Mazzani, AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Mar 23, 2001 / Nov 24, 2005

Object ID: 150231

Hits: 52032 

Page Score: 92.28%  - 39 Votes 

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Weissmies group (4023m) is the eastest Pennin Alps high group.
Weissmies massif is a 12 Km long and 8km large North-South Ridge parallel to Mischabel massif.
To Weissmies group ridge belong from North to South: Böshorn (3268m), Fletchhorn (3993m), lagginhorn (4010m), Weissmies (4023m),Portjenhorn (3567m) and a point (3654m) on the Switz-Italien border.

Weissmies massif is east borded by Simplon Pass (2000m) and Gondo Valley,including Simplon (1472m) and Gondo (855m) villages .
The west side is borded by Saas Valley,including Saas Balen (1483m), Saas Grund(1559m), Saas Fee (1803m)and Saas Almagel(1673m) villages.

The east side of Weissmies is ice covered by Weissmies Glacier and west side by Trift Glacier.

Easy peak of 4000 m. This peak can be climbed in a single day with good planning. Take the first cable car from Hohaas to the upper station at around 3000m. If you feel like a purist you can walk up and stay at the refuge - why bother ! However, you will arrive at the upper station at around 8:00 am, this means you have to go for the summit across the crevassed glacier to the slopes of the west face in a race against the sun. You will lose this race unless there is cloud cover. Either way it is worth it. The glacier scenery, huge bergschrund (see photo) and views across the valley to the Mischabel chain are magnificent. The summit will be attained in around 4hours. Return by the same route in rotten snow or traverse the mountain descending its east ridge. The latter option will give you a long walk down to Saas Grund - perhaps a more satisfying experience.

Views taken from Weissmies


Access and valleys

From Switzerland:

Rhône valley >> Visp >> Stalden >> Saas valley on the west side of the mountain.
Rhône valley >> Visp >> Stalden >> Saas valley >> Saas Almageller valley on the south side.
Rhône valley >> Brig >> Simplon pass >> Simplon and/or Laggin valley on the huge east side.

when coming from Italy :
East side: Domodossola >> Val Divedro >> Gondo (Swiss border) >> Laggintal
South side: Domodossola >> Val Divedro >> Gondo (Swiss border) >> Zwischenbergen valley >> Zwischenbergen pass

To climb the west side -normal routes-, Take the first cable car from Hohaas to the upper station at around 3000m. If you feel like a purist you can walk up and stay at the hut.

Red Tape

There is no red tape. Reasonable charges apply to excellent camping facilities in the valley. It is possible to camp discreetly above say 2500m - not strictly legal but tolerated with good behavior.

Weissmies faces

When To Climb

Best in the summer month like all high alpine peaks.

Weissmies hut

Open: end of June - end of September, winter room available for 15 people
Hut lord : Arthur Anthamatten
Hut phone: ++41 (0)27 957 25 54

We recommend to inform the hut lord before you start your tour!

Ascent views

Author: Huberschwiller
Date: Jan 04, 2003 05:34 AM
First ascent is 1856 (Petre Joseph Zurbriggen and Jakob Christian Heuser) SE slope from Almagell.

Weissmies south side

Around Weissmies south side

External Links

Additions and Corrections

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Viewing: 1-5 of 5    
Erik SaltersUntitled Comment

Hasn't voted

Just before we climbed it in july 2003, large crevasses developed in the middle section of the route. It requires some nice, not to difficult steps. Some ice screws are adviseable. An unsecurred 60 foot ladder has been placed to overcome an overhanging icewall. Add about 30 minutes to 1 hour in your route planning when you have a pre 2003 route description.
Posted Jul 1, 2004 7:19 am
InSPiREUntitled Comment


Voted 8/10

The first Weissmies hut was build in 1924. A second hut was build in 1960.


There are a total of 110 beds in summer, in winter (15 dec - 15 april) there are 14 places open.

How to get there

You can reach the hut by foot from Saas-Grund in 3 hours.

Or you can go by cabletrain from Saas-Grund to Kreuzboden and then walk the latst part to the hut (1 hour).

Possible mountains to climb

Weissmies (4.023m), Schwarzmies (3.194m), Lagginhorn (4.010m), Fletschhorn (3.993m), Jegihorn (3.206m).
Posted Aug 2, 2004 2:42 pm
InSPiREUntitled Comment


Voted 8/10

A more common place to stay when you want to climb the Weissmies is the Hohsaas hut. It's a private hut, which costs a bit more then the Weissmies hut. The big advantage is that it's closer to the Weissmies so you don't have to walk an hour before you reach the Triffgletscher.

The accomodation is alright. It's a bit small, but there's still room for about 40 persons. Most beds are on the first floor of the cablestation, which is about 20 meter away from bergrestaurant Hohsaas.

To make a reservation is recommended.

bergrestaurant Hohsaas

Fam. Werlen Beat

Restaurant Hohsaas

3910 Saas-Grund

Tel. ++41 (0)27 957 17 13

Fax. ++41(0)27 957 40 22

E-mail: over-the-top@bluewin.ch

Internet: http://www.marnet.ch/over-the-top

Costs in 2004: CHF 54,-
Posted Aug 3, 2004 10:02 am
GarfieldUntitled Comment

Hasn't voted

Posted Dec 12, 2005 8:39 am
MauntainfreakPhoto from Peak

Hasn't voted

This photo was taken from a plane. (click it to enlarge):

Click to enlarge

Posted Jan 7, 2016 4:32 pm

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