Weissmies group (4023m) is the eastest Pennin Alps high group.
Weissmies massif is a 12 Km long and 8km large North-South Ridge parallel to Mischabel massif.
To Weissmies group ridge belong from North to South: Böshorn (3268m), Fletchhorn (3993m), lagginhorn (4010m), Weissmies (4023m),Portjenhorn (3567m) and a point (3654m) on the Switz-Italien border.
Weissmies massif is east borded by Simplon Pass (2000m) and Gondo Valley,including Simplon (1472m) and Gondo (855m) villages .
The west side is borded by Saas Valley,including Saas Balen (1483m), Saas Grund(1559m), Saas Fee (1803m)and Saas Almagel(1673m) villages.
The east side of Weissmies is ice covered by Weissmies Glacier and west side by Trift Glacier.
Easy peak of 4000 m. This peak can be climbed in a single day with good planning. Take the first cable car from Hohaas to the upper station at around 3000m. If you feel like a purist you can walk up and stay at the refuge - why bother ! However, you will arrive at the upper station at around 8:00 am, this means you have to go for the summit across the crevassed glacier to the slopes of the west face in a race against the sun. You will lose this race unless there is cloud cover. Either way it is worth it. The glacier scenery, huge bergschrund (see photo) and views across the valley to the Mischabel chain are magnificent. The summit will be attained in around 4hours. Return by the same route in rotten snow or traverse the mountain descending its east ridge. The latter option will give you a long walk down to Saas Grund - perhaps a more satisfying experience.
Views taken from Weissmies
Access and valleys
Rhône valley >> Visp >> Stalden >> Saas valley on the west side of the mountain.
Rhône valley >> Visp >> Stalden >> Saas valley >> Saas Almageller valley on the south side.
Rhône valley >> Brig >> Simplon pass >> Simplon and/or Laggin valley on the huge east side.
when coming from Italy :
East side: Domodossola >> Val Divedro >> Gondo (Swiss border) >> Laggintal
South side: Domodossola >> Val Divedro >> Gondo (Swiss border) >> Zwischenbergen valley >> Zwischenbergen pass
To climb the west side -normal routes-, Take the first cable car from Hohaas to the upper station at around 3000m. If you feel like a purist you can walk up and stay at the hut.
There is no red tape. Reasonable charges apply to excellent camping facilities in the valley. It is possible to camp discreetly above say 2500m - not strictly legal but tolerated with good behavior.
When To Climb
Best in the summer month like all high alpine peaks.
Open: end of June - end of September, winter room available for 15 people
Hut lord : Arthur Anthamatten
Hut phone: ++41 (0)27 957 25 54
We recommend to inform the hut lord before you start your tour!
Date: Jan 04, 2003 05:34 AM
First ascent is 1856 (Petre Joseph Zurbriggen and Jakob Christian Heuser) SE slope from Almagell.
Weissmies south side
Around Weissmies south side
lots of information, webcams, meteo...
- valais-Wallis official site
all for tourism
- Saas Grund site.
Weather, accomodations, etc...
- Hohsaas site.
More than a hut, there is a real restaurant.
The site of these huts, in German.
- Weissmies at www.4000er.de
Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps
- Weissmies solo 2004
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