True Grit, 5.10a, 6 Pitches

Overview/Approach

5th Pitch- 25m- 5.10a

The first established route on this section of EEOR’s (East End of Mount Rundle) face was Geriatric. But True Grit by far makes the best line up Mount Rundle’s steep and textured limestone wall and is considered to be the first multi-pitch sport line put up in the Bow Valley (Whalen and Davis-1990). Of course it is easier to put in a good route when one is committed to making it a full on sport route versus mixed or trad. True Grit is fully bolted, and considered by most to be one of the most consistent, sustained sport routes for the grade in the local area. I concur. Every pitch receives the 5.10a rating versus so many routes, both trad and sport, varying their grade from pitch to pitch.

True Grit does not reach the summit of EEOR and climbs the shorter south end of the east face. Although a sport route, True Grit intersects, on several occasions, with Geriatric, which is in fact a trad route.

You have two options for descent but the most efficient utilizes three 50m rap stations via double ropes with one additional short rappel at the end. The route is set up to exit at any pitch regarding suspect weather.

From the reservoir parking area directly across from EEOR, gain a trail slightly to the south (left of a huge boulder) and ascend steep ground northwest via switchbacks. As you get closer to the south end wall, you will hook into a trail that runs along the base of EEOR. Continue north along the trail looking for a ledge to gain that angles up right via some scramble terrain that peters out with several trees. Scramble up to belay station with bolts above it.

Route Description

700’+/-, 6 Pitches, 5.10a

1st Pitch- 30m- 5.10a/ Climb up past a rappel station and traverse slightly right via a tough move over a small bulge. Continue through well protected ground to a semi-hanging belay below a roof.

2nd Pitch- 30m- 5.10a/ The 2nd pitch is home to the crux move of the route. Follow the bolts up and left on pleasant climbing for the grade. Then you come to a steep section where you cannot see the next bolt. This crux move takes a bold swing, right foot first, looking for a small angled toe ledge. The move is protected, but the sharply textured rock gives one pause to be sure, even considering a short whipper. Once you make the right move, you will see the bolt above and the steep terrain eases up. Pass a rappel station and continue to the right of it up to a better belay ledge.

3rd Pitch- 25m- 5.10a or c/ The 3rd pitch offers a 5.10c variation. Both variations start by making a difficult move off the deck and then doing a hand traverse to a good foot rest to the right. Head up past another bolt and then either head right into the textured limestone groove (5.10a) or turn left and head up the arête to the left of the corner (5.10c). In either instance, you end up at a belay below and to the right of a steep corner.

4th Pitch- 35m- 5.10a/ This is a full on corner pitch. Little tougher than it looks even, somewhat awkard through the middle section requiring solid balancing moves. Once through the corner, pass the rappel station on run out, but easy ground to the fixed belay up and right of the rappel.

5th Pitch- 25m- 5.10a/ You can combine these last two pitches, but some of the toughest climbing is directly below the top at the end of 50m. Climb directly above following the bolt line to the next belay.

6th Pitch- 25m- 5.10a/ There is a bolt directly above you that can be used for a 5.8 variation for some reason? If you have climbed 5.10a to this point, not sure why one would take this option really. Follow the bolt line to the left over a bulge that can be easily climbed on its right side. Follow the bolt line as it angles left to the base of an overhang. You really have to search out the holds here, but it starts left and then makes a bold traverse right to decent feet. Continue up to the large ledge above.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

With double ropes, take three “straight down” 50m rappels on double bolted rappel “chain” stations (2008). The last rap is a 25m rap to the ground or shorter if just going back to the ramp you started on (where your shoes probably are).

Essential Gear

10 Draws or 14 if you plan on combining the last two pitches. Helmet, rock shoes, etc. We used double ropes which I always advise on longer routes on EEOR or Yamnuska so you can make a quick weather exit if need be, taking advantage of the 50m raps. 25m raps are set up as well though. You will return to the base of the climb via the rappels, thus you can leave shoes and other items behind.

Getting There

From the Canmore Nordic Center, ascend the Spray Lakes/Smith Dorrien road (gravel) through the switchbacks to the parking area between Goats Creek and the dam right on the reservoir. This is the most efficient parking area for the trad and sport routes on EEOR. Watch for hazardous rock fall on the switchbacks above Canmore. At times this road will be closed due to rock and/or mud slides. There are restrooms at the Goats Creek Trail head parking area.

External Links

• 100’s of Canmore and Banff National Park multi-pitch rock climbs, ice climbs, alpine climbs and scrambles, just scroll down to routes
• Banff National Park, Parks Canada
• OR: Best True Technical Clothing and Accessories in the Outdoor Industry
• Scarpa, has surpassed La Sportiva in terms of quality, function, value
• Osprey Backpacks, Not a Second Choice
• Great Outdoors Depot
• Mont-Bell
• Cascade Designs (MSR; Thermarest; Platypus)