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Tunnel Vision
Route

Tunnel Vision

 
Tunnel Vision

Page Type: Route

Location: Nevada, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.16860°N / 115.4947°W

Object Title: Tunnel Vision

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.7

Number of Pitches: 5

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes
 

 

Page By: Hyadventure

Created/Edited: Apr 8, 2002 / Jan 19, 2009

Object ID: 156334

Hits: 6033 

Page Score: 77.48%  - 8 Votes 

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Approach

From the White Rock Spring trailhead (see the main page), White Rock Mountain is clearly visible. Angel Food Wall is the large, relatively unbroken piece of rock facing you. Head down a trail toward it, and after about 100 yards, head left on a more seldom used dirt road. Hike down it until you are almost in the wash. Then, take a right into the wash (many small trails), and scramble up to the base of Angel Food wall. You should head for the point at the base of the wall that is about 100' to the left of the right side of a pink band of rock. The approach should take between 10 and 45 minutes (10 if you run, 45 if you're slow).

Route Description

Tunnel Vision is a very unique climb. Two-thirds of the way up the climb you tunnel behind the rock for almost a full pitch. The climbing in the tunnel is only 5.3 or so, so it's not too challenging, but it is fun nonetheless. At the far end of the tunnel you're rewarded with a view of Vegas and Turtlehead Peak through a "window". Besides the tunnel pitch, Tunnel Vision has some face climbing, some cracks, and a tricky chimnney.

Start about 25' above the ground on a ledge 15ft to the right of a chimnney. There's a hand crack in the face and a good size roof a few feet up. The description below is for a 60m rope.

Pitch 1 (5.6) Climb the hand crack for 10ft, then traverse right undneath the roof for 10ft around to its right side. Follow the crack/chimney to it's top. There are some chockstones in the chimney that look loose, but they're really not (as of April 5, 02). Step into another chimney and climb it to a point where you can step right onto a ledge (slings around a block for an anchor).

Pitch 2 (5.7) Wiggle up a chimney for 100ft. The chimney gets harder and harder as it goes. Finally, you have to exit the chimney onto the face. Look for a hidden rail inside what appears to be a featurless off-width. Lieback up this, or if you can't find it, stem up it. This part is very exposed, and is possibly a sandbag at 5.7. Continue until you get to a big ledge under a roof.

Pitch 3 (5.5) Pull the easy roof on the right hand side, then follow a dihedral up to a big ledge. You can do most of your climbing on the face, going back to crack in the dihedral to put in pro. Angle left and up into the tunnel (slick, very little pro). When you get to a ledge, traverse left to the window. Stretch the rope for another 20 ft to a small ledge.

Pitch 4 (5.5) Cruise up easy rock to a steep headwall. Either climb the fun crack (big holds) or escape left to the top.

DESCENT
Head southeast (left) through some gullies and chimneys until you are forced to angle right. Traverse right, then head down a big gully. You'll reach a spot where most people rappel (50', slings around a block). Rappel here, or head left and downclimb on 5.5 rock. Continue scrambling down the gully on class 2/3 terrain. You will wind up a little more than a quarter mile away from the base of the climb. If you didn't leave anything at the base, you can cut across the desert to the dirt road you hiked in on.

Essential Gear

A standard rack. I heard that big gear (camalots 4-5-6) may be helpfull protecting P2. Headlamps are not necessary for the tunnel.

Additions and Corrections

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Viewing: 1-2 of 2    
jwportPitches 2, 3 and 4

Hasn't voted

Pitch 2 ends on the left side of the chimney at a two-bolt anchor approximately 90' above the first belay.

Pitch 3 alternate- From the bolted anchor, step left onto the face. The first bolt is within 10' of the anchors. It is extremely run-out to the second bolt. However, 5.8ish moves up the face can be protected with pro. to 1.5" in a crack on the left. After approximately 80' the crack ends. From here, you can carefully climb right to the top of the original chimney (not much gear) or veer left up the face on sloping holds leading to fun positive edges and several bolts. Eventually reach a two-bolt anchor on the face. +/- 160'

Pitch 4- From the belay ledge step 20' right (no pro., but easy 5.5 climbing) into an alcove (original Pitch 3 belay) and continue up the standard route.
Posted Apr 6, 2007 1:05 pm
jwportRodents

Hasn't voted

Beware of rodents at the base of this route. Arriving back at my pack I found they had eaten several holes through the top pouch to get to a bag of mixed nuts. There is other evidence (shredded pack material of various colors) that this has happened to other climbers, too.

Also, if you find a set of keys... please let me know.
Posted Apr 6, 2007 1:18 pm

Viewing: 1-2 of 2    

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