Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 22.37268°S / 44.6663°W
Activities Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Winter
Additional Information Elevation: 8691 ft / 2649 m
Sign the Climber's Log
Me at the summit of the unnamed peak
Summit shot.

Unnamed Peak 1 from Itatiaia is a big mountain right beside Agulhas Negras Peak, inside Itatiaia National Park, Brazil. Most of the brazilian mountaineers don't even know this mountain because they're going up Asa de Hermes or Pedra do Sino, or maybe the Agulhas Negras traverse, and just don't try this one so they can save energy. Or they just don't go, simple as that.

As almost nobody goes there, there's no trail. After the rain season the woods grow up pretty good and hide the possible path. And again, as nobody goes there, nature takes care of itself.

The park itself really is something. It has something around 35 summits, most of them, higher then 2.400 m above sea level. Loads of rock climbing routes, a rock climbing school and training walls at the rocks of Morro do Couto, another big brazilian mountain of 2.680 m.

Getting There

 
The moutain from
 
 
Close to the summit
Almost there!

By bus

From Minais Gerais/ São Paulo/ Rio de Janeiro, you have to take a bus to a little city called Itanhandú. Several bus companies can take you there. Once you get to Itanhandú, take a nother bus from the same bus station to Itamonte, a smaller town, at the bottom of the Sierra.

There is the point: Once you get to Itamonte, it is hard to find transport to the park entrance. But there's some taxi drivers that know the park and can take you up to the park, and that's gonna cost you around R$ 100,00 (about US$ 55.00).

From the main entrance, you have to register at the military office, than you're free to get into the park from 8am to 5pm. It is important to get out at the right time to avoid problems.

Once inside the park, just pick the mountains to climb/ hike.

To this mountain, you must follow the same route to Agulhas Negras Peak, but after the bridge something like 15 min, the trail is gonna split into 3 ways: Left to altar Peak, right to Agulhas Negras Peak and middle to Asa de Hermes rock. You have to take the left pass, towards Altar Peak. From the summit of Altar peak (2.665m) you'll be able to see the peak right ahead of you on the left side of Agulhas Negras Peak. Just pick a straight line and go for it.

Don't expect this to be easy, from the entrance of the park to the summit and come back, it can take up to 11 hours, it's up your shape.

Satelite image of the mountain

 
google earth view...
 

The huge mass of rock at the right side is Agulhas Negras Peak. Bell Rock is at the left side, the mountain in question unnamed peak is marked at the center of the image.

Red Tape

If you go by the high entrance of the park, as soon as you get there register yourself and pay a fee of R$ 12,00 (about USD 7.00) for the entrance.
Parking lot at the entrance;
Well marked trails (just to camp by Marombinha Peak and Maromba summit);

What’s forbidden:
At all costs, don't make fire or Deforest any places. Respect the nature and wildlife please!



BE CAREFUL ABOUT SNAKES AND POISONOUS SPIDERS (BROWN SPIDER)
A GPS is highly recommended for that part of the park, on a foggy day you will be lost in no time.

Camping

Camping inside and outside the park is strictly forbidden and strongly fiscalized, don't even try that. There's is a camping site called alsene 2km outside the park down the road, but it is closed now for crimes against the flora, bastards!
I recomend to stay at some cheap hotel at Itamonte (R$ 50,00 - around uS$ 30.00).

The second option is to stay at the Rebouças hut, and that would make it easier for you to hike this peak.

To access the page for the hut and its info: Summitpost - Rebouças Hut

The Park

The area of the Itatiaia National Park is divided into two different environments. One is the Atlantic forest with numerous centenarian trees that keep hold of the lower part, and the other which characterizes for its mountainous topography with crags and peaks on its highest part.

The mountainous place is ideal for long and amusing hikes in the midst of landscapes of singular beauty. Altitudes vary between 700 and 2792 metres.

It is considered the first national park in Brazil for the preliminary data concerning its creation goes back to the beginnings of the XX century. The Pico das Aguilhas Mountain, the fifth tallest of the country, is located in this natural reserve between the limits of Minas Gerais and Sao Paulo.

After a failed project the then Biological Station of Rio de Janeiro's Botanic Garden became a National Park in July of 1937, during the mandate of president Getulio Vargas, with an area of 12 thousand hectares. Its extension was enlarged to cover 30 thousand hectares in 1982.

Weather Forecast



PS: The weather forecast on this link is not for this mountain but it will do just fine since the mountain from the forcast (Black Needles) is just a few kms away from it.

Legal Issues


To hike/ climb is a dangerous activity and requires proper equipment and clothing, the owner of this page cannot be blamed by injuries caused to anyone who read this page for its info about the mountain, and eventually got hurt by doing so with reckless behaviour or bad weather conditions.

Paulo Roberto Felipe Schmidt – AKA: PAROFES

External Links


My youtube channel: www.youtube.com/parofes
- Now with 270+ videos online!

The biggest brazilian website about climbing and mountaineering, for which I'm a columnist: