Utopia, 5.7-5.9+

Overview/Approach

 
Utopia is a relatively new climbing area in Moab, located on the walls just above the Colorado River past Big Bend. Although the name can be misleading (I did not find anything of “utopia” climbing value), there are a few objectives that are worth doing for the fun aspect alone: Spear of Destiny and Oebehsenuef (ancient Egyptian deity).  Both are small towers and are labeled PG 13 although neither has anything resembling “PG13” leading in my opinion. This whole area is graded soft compared to other local climbs. I would hate to see any of the Colorado suburbanites, who typically gather at Indian Creek and Castleton, get on this wall and then cross the river to give the Ramp a go (same grade range). The Ramp, although rated the same, will be a whole different world to say the least.
 
Spear of Destiny (5.9 PG13) and Qebehsenuef (5.8+ PG13) should definitely be done together. In fact I combined four routes in half a day worth of climbing at Utopia which included the before mentioned two towers and the two wall routes to the west of the Spear: Terma (5.9 PG13, 3 pitches) and SklogW (5.9+ PG13). None of these routes had any PG13 leading on them that I could decipher.  I can only assume the FAers just were not use to desert sandstone.
 
Terma was a quick and boring climb for the most part. SklogW was not a whole lot better. But Spear and Oebehsenuef were cool small towers. 

Approximately half a mile beyond the Big Bend bouldering area, there is a decent sized parking area on the left side (river side) of the road. From there, head up the right side of an obvious drainage/gully. Meander up to the wall. Terma is the easiest route to spot (photo included from the parking area) as a left to right large ramp system. Terma has a fully bolted first pitch just to the right of the corner/ramp system. SklogW is listed as a two pitch route just to the left of Terma (with one 5.7 route in between=separate fixed anchor) whose fixed anchor is easy to spot above a short right facing corner. SklogW is easily done as a single pitch, even top roped as a single pitch with a 70m rope. Spear of Destiny is the obvious tower (with a spear shape about it) left of Terma and SklogW. Qebehsenuef is hidden from view until you start traversing the loose hill side to the east of the Spear. It is a short 10 minute hike away. An independent short tower located about 40’ north of the main wall.

Route Description(s)

Routes/Towers are listed from West to East)

Terma- 3 Pitches- 5.9/

Terma was a quick and boring climb for the most part. If you are up there then Terma might as well be done. It is by far the tallest of any of the objectives. Three quick pitches get you to the top of the cliff with a great view. The first two pitches are fully bolted. The last pitch is the crux and offers the most interesting climbing through some calcite deposits. You meander up a splitter that turns into a wide slot and finishes in a calcite laden right facing corner to the top of the wall. The descent consists of three fixed raps that are easily done with a 70m. Dow

SklogW- 100’-5.9+/

Terma and SklogW are both one star routes at best. At least SklogW offers trad climbing. I found no "+" nor PG13 on this route. Head up the wide crack (C4#3 and #4) and pull the crux of the pitch at a bulge on suspect rock (but well protected). Continue to a ledge and take the short right facing finger corner with tons of assist from a hand crack pillar to the left. No lay back needed, fairly easy climbing for the grade. Traverse right to fixed rap. Can easily top rope the route. Dow

Spear of Destiny- 90'-5.9/

As before mentioned, there is no PG 13 on this pitch in my opinion. It is well bolted up the wide chasm. Previous beta speaks of “crazy body bridges”, etc. Any “body span” needed is in the 5.7 realm. The climbing is mostly just stemming, maybe a bit of chimney technique to get started. Towards the top, you do commit to the right wall (tower side) via positive holds and complete the climb through several more clips. Someone mentioned on Mountain Project that there were not any harder moves than the 2nd pitch on Honeymoon Chimney (the Priest) which I concur with . That rating is 5.7. That is two whole grades different which is no doubt attributed to two different generations who put each route in. If you are used to wide at all, this will just be a fun tower route. Dow

Qebehsenuef- 40'- 5.8+/

,Qebehsenuef is not as much a climb as it is a free air rap with great views of the Colorado River and Arches National Park. Climb past a few bolts (well protected thus I don’t get the PG 13) and rap off the other (much taller) side for a great photo pose. Basically the same reason you would climb Looking Glass Rock south of Moab. Dow

Images

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