Utopia is a relatively new climbing area in Moab located on the walls just above the Colorado River past Big Bend. Although the name can be misleading (I did not find anything of “utopia” climbing value), there are a few objectives that are worth doing for the fun aspect alone: Spear of Destiny and Qebehsenuef (ancient Egyptian deity). Both are small towers and are labeled PG 13 although neither has anything resembling “PG13” leading in my opinion. This whole area is graded soft compared to other local climbs. I would hate to see any of the Colorado suburbanites, who typically gather at Indian Creek and Castleton, get on this wall and then cross the river to give the Ramp a go (same grade range). The Ramp, although rated the same, will be a whole different world to say the least.
Spear of Destiny (5.9 PG13) and Qebehsenuef (5.8+ PG13) should definitely be done together. In fact I combined four routes in half a day worth of climbing at Utopia which included the before mentioned two towers and the two wall routes to the west of the Spear: Terma (5.9 PG13, 3 pitches) and SklogW (5.9+ PG13). None of these routes had any PG13 leading on them that I could decipher. I can only assume the FAers just were not use to desert sandstone.
Terma was a quick and boring climb for the most part. SklogW was not a whole lot better. But Spear and Qebehsenuef were cool. Qebehsenuef is not as much a climb as it is a free air rap with great views of the Colorado River and Arches National Park. Climb past a few bolts (well protected thus I don’t get the PG 13) and rap off the other (much taller) side for a great photo pose. Basically the same reason you would climb Looking Glass Rock south of Moab.
Approximately half a mile beyond the Big Bend bouldering area, there is a decent sized parking area on the left side (river side) of the road. From there, head up the right side of an obvious drainage/gully. Meander up to the wall. Terma is the easiest route to spot (photo included from the parking area on the Terma page) as a left to right large ramp system. Although Spear of Destiny is a tower, it can mesh into the foreground, but I could still decipher it from the parking area as well. Terma has a full bolted first pitch just to the right of the corner/ramp system. SklogW is listed as a two pitch route just to the left of Terma (with one 5.7 route in between=separate fixed anchor) whose fixed anchor is easy to spot above a short right facing corner. SklogW is easily done as a single pitch, even top roped as a single pitch with a 70m rope. Spear of Destiny is the obvious tower (with a spear shape about it) left of Terma and SklogW. Qebehsenuef is hidden from view until you start traversing the loose hill side to the east of the Spear. It is a short 10 minute hike away. It is an independent short tower located about 40’ north of the main wall. The tower is obvious, but you do not appreciate the fun aspect of it until you rap. The climbing side is fairly benign.
Route Description40’+/-, 5.8+ PG13
Most would be hard pressed to say Qebehsenuef was any more difficult than 5.7. It is “modern” graded for sure. I did not see any PG 13 either. It is well bolted. The anchor on top was not done in a stellar fashion and therefore is not the safest anchor in Moab by a long shot (cracked rock where the bolts were drilled, etc.) but I found it adequate as of 2016. The rap is classic for Moab (Washer Woman, Looking Glass, etc.). A fun free air rap down the much longer east side that is easily done with a 60m rope. Great photo opt if first person down scrambles back up towards the wall and encompasses the Colorado river in the shot.