Vestpillaren Direct Start : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Presten West Face

An exciting seascape - Photo Silvia Mazzani

***Vestpillaren Direct Start

Summit altitude: mt. 680
Difficulty: TD sup., UIAA VI
Equipment: not equipped
Climbing length: 470 mt.
Exposure: W
First ascent: Arild Meyer and Brynjar Tollefsen in 1978
First free ascent: Hans Christian Doseth and Havard Nesheim in 1979
Starting point: Route 816 to Henningsvaer (parking)

A world classic rock climb, the first route realized on the PRESTEN mighty pillar, overlooking the coastal road
to Henningsvaer. A must! Here is related the “direct start variation”. Not equipped.

Getting There

From the pull-out on the R 816 to Henningsvaer, just below Presten, follow a grassy trail going towards the right-hand side of the cliff. Vestpillaren Direct Start begins about 20 mt. left to the obvious steep and grassy gully where rises “Vestpillaren original start” (10 minutes from the road).

Vestpillaren Direct Start report

Last corner - Photo Silvia Mazzani

Thin cracks...

Vestpillaren The Slanting Corner, Lofoten

The slanting corner - Photo Silvia Mazzani

Vestpillaren sixth pitch s corner, Lofoten

Sixth pitch beautiful corner

Vestpillaren Direct Start report (UIAA Scale)

Starting point below three shallow corners.

L1 - Climb the right-slanting corner, the central one of three, reaching an easy ledge, then traverse left along the ledge to a steep crack leading to another small ledge below a corner. Belay on the ledge. V+, 45 mt.
L2 - Up the corner towards a flake on the left, climb the flake, then a thin finger-crack, widening in the upper part and leading to a belay VI-, 40 mt.
L3 - Straight up along a thin grooves’ system, ending towards left on a diagonal ramp which leads to a small stance. VI, 50 mt.
L4 – Straightly over the belay, then climb up an hard corner – maybe a variation – leading on the right edge of the big grassy ledge named Storhilla. V, VI+ the hard corner’s variation, 20 mt.
L5 – Along Storhilla move towards right around a big block, climb a crack on the right side of the block and belay on its top. IV, 30 mt.
L6 – Straight up climb a thin crack, then a clear corner, ending over a good ledge; traverse the ledge towards left – some blocks – and belay over a higher small ledge below a magnificent shallow corner. VI-, 45 mt.
L7 – A bit slantaway towards right to enter the corner, then follow the upper fine flake, becoming a thin crack. Traverse left to take another cracks’ system in the left face of the groove, belay a bit hanging below a steep bulge into the groove. VI, 45 mt..
L8 – Up along the groove with steep sections, then head towards right to a stance below and a bit left of a magnificent right-leaning corner, “The Slanting Corner”. V+, 40 mt.
L9 – “The Slanting Corner”. Up the corner with superb climb to a tiny ledge, then climb a thin technical crack
to a belay at a block. VI, 40 mt.
L10 – Up then left towards a big loose flake; climb the flake and a chimney-groove and belay over a ledge below a shallow diagonal corner. IV+, 30 mt.
L11 – Climb the nice corner to its end, then move down and right along a delicate slab, gaining the grassy final gully. V+, 35 mt.
L12- Scramble up the gully gaining the pillar’s summit.

Descent

From Presten view over the Djupfjorden, Lofoten

Over the top with Djupfjorden

Descent (2 hours): from Presten summit rise towards South-East, then scramble along a ridge, gaining a col between Festvagstinden (541 mt.) on the right and Budalstinden (663 mt.) on the left. From here there are two different ways to go down;
- from the col cross the ridge descending directly along a steep grassy gully with enormous ferns, then head to right – West - along blocks and grass, reaching the small lake of Heiavatnet. From the lake a marked steep trail leads to Festvag on the coastal road between Presten’s parking and Henningsvaer.
- from the col follow the ridge towards right to the summit of Festvagtinden, reaching the path that goes down to Heiavatnet. From here follow the same trail to the road.

Essential gear

Rope 2 x 50, helmet, all size friends and nuts

Where to stay

Lyngvaer Lofoten Bobilcamping
LYNGVAER LOFOTEN BOBILCAMPING

When to climb

Lofoten are not famous for their weather, though sometimes “High Scandinavian” and “Gulf Stream’s” warming effects can give you blu skies and sunshine. However the best months for climbing are late May, June, July and August.
Midnight sun: from 27 May to 17 July
Polar night: from 6 December to 6 January

Climate

On Lofoten the weather can change suddenly from clear and blu sky with sunshine or the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) to violent storms with rain or snow. Maximum temperatures go from +30°C in June and July to -15°C in January and February; the average temperatures for these months are from +12°C to -3°C. The period with the minimum rainfall goes from April to June, while we may expect the maximum rainfall or snowfall between October and December.

Midnight sun: from 27 May to 17 July
Polar night: from 6 December to 6 January

The Northern Lights can be seen over Lofoten from September to April.