Via Raffaele Cugusi - Punta Cusidore

Overview

Via Raffaele Cugusi

Punta Cusidore 1147 m is located on the island of Sardinia in the Supramonte Group. Notwithstanding the rather modest altitude - a common feature of all the mountains of the island that in fact don't reach 2000 meters of quote - Punta Cusidore is a majestic mountain with impressive and vertical rock faces on the side facing Oliena (North West wall). 

On these walls, numerous demanding routes of high technical level have been climbed up to a height of 600 meters. The route described below is probably one of the least difficult climbs on the wall. It is located at the left end of the wall where the height of the wall decreases, running on an obvious ridge near the saddle named Forcella S'Angroni Mannu, which separates Punta Cusidore from the nearby Bruncu Nieddu.

Getting There

The closest towns are Oliena and Dorgali.

Road access

Access from Oliena - Take the road to Dorgalia and at the junction with the road to the church of Montserrata (km. 2,8, branch not very visible, signposts anyhow) leave the main road and turn to right in the direction of the sanctuary. At the first junction take the branch to the left, which is a narrow road winding in the direction of the walls. The road becomes soon unpaved, rising between the vineyards to the site named Funtana Iscandula, altitude 200 m. Further on the road becomes bumpy and it's advisable to park your car as you find a pull out, unless you have a four wheel drive.

Via Raffaele Cugusi

Route description

Difficulty: AD, UIAA IV
Equipment: bolted belays, a few pegs along the pitches
Climbing length: 410 m
Exposure: North
First ascent: Giacomo Corona and Alessandro Partel 1980
Starting point: Pedra ’e Littu

An interesting and pleasant route, the easiest climb of the wide North face of Punta Cusidore

L1 - Follow the ridge for about 50 meters and reach a comfortable stance (III, 50 m)
L2 - Climb up some big steps reaching another good stance (III+, 50 m).
L3 - Up the ridge staying on the right of the edge and reach an open dihedral. Climb it reaching a notch (III, IV, 50 m)

L4 - Climb up without an obligatory route, following the easiest terrain on steps and cracks, reaching a good stance (III, 50 m,).
L5 - Up near the ridge on easy slabs cut by some cracks (III, 50 m)

Climb the subsequent lengths of rope without an obligatory way, choosing the most logical line with difficulty levels of II and III UIAA and exit on the wide ridge that rises long to the right towards the top. Follow the wide ridge with some easy rocks reaching the summit.

Descent - The descent is easy, with a brief and easy climbing move (II UIAA). From the summit scramble down towards South, getting the base of the rocks. Head to West (towards right facing out) to reach the Forcella di Sovana,  a saddle between Cusidore and Pedra Mugrònes. From the saddle scramble down a steep scree reaching the base of the NW ridge route and from here follow the path to Pedra 'e Littu, then the dirty road to the parking lot (about 2 hours from the summit).

Essential Gear

Ropes 2x50, helmet, small and medium friend, nuts, slings for the holes 

Red Tape

There are not particular restrictions in hiking and climbing inside this area. No fees and no permits required.

When to climb

Best period goes from April to November, but it's possible to climb all year round 

Where to stay

Different kind of accomodation in Oliena and Dorgali

Meteo

Meteo Arpa Sardegna

Guidebooks and maps

"Pietra di Luna - Trad & Multipitches" - Maurizio Oviglia - V updated edition Fabula 2015

"Sardegna" - Maurizio Oviglia - Guida dei Monti d'Italia Club Alpino Italiano - Touring Club Italiano 1997

Map - IGM 50.000, sheet "Oliena"

External links

Climbingsardinia