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Legione Reale Truppe Leggere, Punta Cusidore NW Ridge

 
Legione Reale Truppe Leggere, Punta Cusidore NW Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Supramonte/Nuoro, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 40.26240°N / 9.45910°E

Object Title: Legione Reale Truppe Leggere, Punta Cusidore NW Ridge

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Alpine D+, UIAA V+

Number of Pitches: 17

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Oct 22, 2015 / Jan 31, 2017

Object ID: 957098

Hits: 621 

Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Sardegna - Sardinia > Supramonte > Punta Cusidore > Legione Reale Truppe Leggere


Legione Reale Truppe Leggere, Punta Cusidore NW Ridge



The Supramonte Massif is one of the best known mountain area on the isle of Sardinia; it's a group made of steep limestone walls and beautiful hard rock climbs, both classic and modern. The rocky heart of this very wild kingdom is the majestic peak of Punta Cusidore, a veritable pearl located between Bruncu Nieddu on the left and the summit of Pedra Mugrònes on the right, along an extensive karst ridge overlooking and dividing the valley of Lanaitto and the plain of Oliena. King of Supramonte, Punta Cusidore also represent the symbol of mountaineering in Sardinia.


Cusidore West face annotated panorama


It's quite famous in reason of its stunning North-West and West walls, dropping up to 600 meters in the highest point. Among the over 30 routes climbed on these two walls the greatest classic route and one of the most famous of Sardinia is Legione Reale Truppe Leggere (Royal Legion Light Troops), a wonderful line running up the clear North West edge of the mountain. The rock is a whiter limestone of excellent quality.

Cusidore annotated panorama

Getting There

The closest towns are Oliena and Dorgali.

Road access

Access from Oliena - Take the road to Dorgali; at the junction with the road to the church of Montserrata (km. 2,8, branch not very visible, signposts anyhow) leave the main road and turn to right towards the sanctuary. Take soon the first branch to the left, a narrow road winding in the direction of the walls. The roads becomes soon unpaved, rising between vineyards to the site named Funtana Iscandula, altitude 200 m. Further on the road becomes bumpy and it's advisable to park your car as you find a pull out, unless you have a four wheel drive.

Unsettled morning over Punta Cusidore
Unsettled morning over Punta Cusidore

Cusidore NW ridge seen from Pedra Mugrònes
Cusidore NW ridge seen from Pedra Mugrònes

Route Description

Legione Reale Truppe Leggere, Punta Cusidore NW Ridge – report UIAA scale

Summit altitude: m. 1147
Difficulty: D+, UIAA V+
Equipment: bolted belays, some pegs along the pitches
Climbing length: 620 m
Exposure: North-West
First ascent: Emilio Beber, Carmelo Andreatta, Giovanni Cagnati 1973, October 1st
Starting point: Pedra ’e Littu

A great outing on a highly satisfactory classic route, providing an exciting climbing up a ridge on excellent white limestone. A classic route of Supramonte Massif. Despite the most difficult moves don’t exceed the grade V+ (UIAA scale) it’s not a route to be taken lightly, especially in reason of its length: 17 pitches and 620 meters of climbing development

Legione Reale Truppe Leggere route topo
Legione Reale Truppe Leggere topo

Supramonte annotated panorama
Supramonte annotated panorama



Walking approach – From the parking continue on the bumpy road at first uphill as far as until the beginning of the forest, then take the right road mainly on level getting the big boulder called Pedra and 'Littu (30 minutes from the car). From the buolder a gravel path (white-red signs) heading to the wall gets the scree coming down from the NW edge. Still following the trail reach the base of the rocks (1 hour from the car). It is located at a ridge that borders a small amphitheater, the start is signaled by a written and a sign

Route report

L1 - Climb the ridge along a beautiful crack and belay on the rocks above in the middle of the pillar (50 m, a move grading IV +).
L2 - Climb up easy rocks and stand on a tree slightly to the right of a large detached block (50 m, III).
L3 - Climb the block (IV), coming out on beautiful slabs above. At this point, the original route isn't obvious and there are different variants followed. This report describes presumably the route by the first climbers, having been found some wooden wedges. This route is sometimes avoided on the right, along a dihedral crack grading V.
L4 - Climb the slabs a bit to the left, belaying on a tree at the base of a small corner (50 m, IV).
L5 - Climb the small corner exiting right, then a nice crack slanting left (pegs and wedges) reaching the trees on a ledge (50 m, IV and V).
L6 - Climb some easy rocks to the base of a sharp crack belaying on a tree (50 m, III).
Probably the first climbers avoided the following three pitchs to the right, crossing for 45 m of rocks mixed with grass, linking the itinerary described below near the summit of the pillar.
The first climb of the variant that is described below (which is also the crux of the route) is claimed by Corrado Pibiri and Bruno Poddesu during their 1980 first repeat.
L7 - Climb the large crack (V +) and belay at the bottom of dihedral-chimney (30 m, V +, IV).
L8 - Climb a step and then up the dihedral, exiting right by climbing an overhang on a slanting slab (25 m, V and V +, various pegs).
L9 - To the left keep again the crack that soon becomes less difficult and belay as soon as possible on outcrops (50 m, V, IV).

Bruncu Nieddu and Oliena plain seen from Cusidore
Bruncu Nieddu and Oliena plain seen from Cusidore

Cusidore, along the classic NW ridge
Along the ridge



L10 - Continue to the right to overcome the summit section of the pillar, climbing some beautiful little walls of excellent rock and belaying on a sloping slab on top of the first step (50 m, IV).
L11 - With a characteristic move pass on a narrow saddle (peg) and go up cracks and ridges (omitting to the left the difficult and large bolted crack of the route Amicizia). Belay on a narrow ridge (50 m, III, IV a single move).
L12 - Along the edge up to the base of a beautiful crack with tree. Climb the crack and the next wall next up on top of the ridge (50 meters, IV + and then IV). (From here it's possible a fuga along the abseil of "Cuore di Pietra", on the northern side: mark on an outcrop with sling, necessary 2 x 50 m ropes).
L13 - Easily on the ridge to a saddle (50 m, II and III).
L14 - Here starts the last section of the route, climbing a ridge that becomes a dihedral, but it must be left almost immediately to traverse to the left on a narrow frame, leaving on the right the route Amicizia that continues straight. Belay on the north wall (25 m, V).
L15 - Up again on a diagonal cracks a bit grassy to the ending gully (50 m, IV and V).
Without a compulsive route to the mountain top (50 m, III).

Admiring Supramonte karst landscape from Cusidore summit
Admiring Supramonte karst landscape from the summit

Cusidore summit cairn
Summit



The timing of the climb are variables: to skilled climbers trained and familiar with this type of route it may take 5 to 6 hours. However, this route has become a frequent destination for parties often at their first experience in alpine climbing; there have been frequent cases of bivouac or even helicopter withdrawals. It is good that they provide a full day of climbing.

Descent description

Cusidore, upper descent route
Cusidore, the upper part of the descent route
Valle di Lanaitto seen from Cusidore
Valle di Lanaitto seen from Cusidore
Exploring a cave along Cusidore descent route
A cave along Cusidore descent route


Descent - The descent is mainly a walk.
From the summit scramble down towards South (a short move graded II UIAA), getting the base of the rocks. Head to West (towards right facing out) to reach the saddle between Cusidore and Pedra Mugrònes named Forcella di Sovana. From the saddle scramble down a steep scree to the base of the NW ridge route and from here follow the path to Pedra 'e Littu, then the dirty road to the parking (about 2 hours from the summit).

Cusidore, upper descent route
Cusidore, upper descent route
The descent route getting Forcella Sovana
On the descent near Forcella Sovana
Forcella Sovana descent scree
Forcella Sovana descent scree

Essential Gear

Ropes 2x50, helmet, small and medium friend, nut, slings for the numberless holes. Hammer may be useful

Red Tape

There are not particular restrictions in hiking and climbing inside this area; no fees and no permits required.

Supramonte is a wild setting lying inside Parco Nazionale del Gennargentu e del Golfo di Orosei. The territory of the park belongs to the Nuoro, Ogliastra and Cagliari provinces and had been established in 1998. Its 73.935 hectares' extension includes 18 communes: Aritzo (NU), Arzana (OG), Baunei (OG), Belvi (NU), Desulo (NU), Dorgali (NU), Fonni (NU), Gadoni (NU), Gairo (OG), Oliena (NU), Orgosolo (NU), Seui (OG), Seulo (CA), Talana (OG), Tonara (NU), Urzulei (OG), Ussassai (OG), Villagrande Strisaili (OG).

When to climb

All year round. Anyhow in reason of the length of the climb best period goes from April to October

Accomodation

Several possibilities of every kind of accomodation in Dorgali and Oliena

Meteo

METEO ARPA SARDEGNA

Guidebooks and mpas

Punta Cusidore map
 


Pietra di Luna - Trad & Multipitches

Pietra di Luna - Trad & Multipitches

Maurizio Oviglia

Trad and sport multipitch guidebook - V updated edition

Fabula 2015
Sardinia guidebook

Sardegna

Maurizio Oviglia

Guida dei Monti d'Italia
Club Alpino Italiano - Touring Club Italiano 1997




Map - IGM 50.000, sheet "Oliena"

Images

Exploring a cave along Cusidore descent routePunta Cusidore and the Supramonte near  sundown seen from DorgaliCusidore summit cairnSupramonte annotated panoramaSupramonte annotated viewCusidore annotated panorama"Pietra di Luna - Trad & Multipitches" guidebook
Cusidore NW ridge seen from Pedra MugrònesAdmiring Supramonte karst landscape from Cusidore summitCusidore - The huge boulder of Pedra \'e LittuCusidore North-West wall near sundownMoonscape from Punta CusidoreThe descent route getting Forcella SovanaMajestic ilex grown on the rocky tableland near Cusidore
[ View Gallery - 11 More Images ]