Vrata valley route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.42000°N / 13.80000°E
Additional Information Route Type: Hike, some rock climbing
Additional Information Time Required: One to two days
Additional Information Difficulty: Long and Tough Hike
Sign the Climber's Log

Route Description


Vrata valley route: 6-7h

Starting point of the route is Aljazev Dom hut (1015m), which lies in the heart of the Vrata valley. More info about the hut is on the front page. Hut is accessible by car from Mojstrana village (12km), which is placed in the upper Savska Dolina valley at the end of Vrata valley (71km to Ljubljana, 13 to Kranjska Gora). You exit from the main road following the signs either to 'Mojstrana' or 'Vrata'. If you are using public transport you will have to walk up the Vrata valley from Mojstrana (2.30h).

Vrata (Door) is probably the most beautiful alpine valley in Slovenia. It is glacial valley, beginning bellow mighty Triglav and it’s gigantic north wall, spreading towards northeast till Mojstrana village and upper Savska Dolina valley. Powerful creek Triglavska Bistrica runs through it, which source is just bellow Triglav’s Face. Sides of the Vrata valley are very steep and high. Two of the Slovenia’s highest peaks are rising above it. On the north side is Skrlatica (2740m) while on the south is Triglav (2864m) and many other above 2500m. View on Triglav’s 1200m high and few kilometers wide north face is one of the most impressive in whole of the Alps!

This route is one of two ‘easy’ Razor routes. It is not technically demanding but anyway long and tough. It offers very nice possibility to climb both Razor and Skrlatica (2740m) in two days. You can leave your car at Aljazev Dom hut and reach Pogacnikov Dom hut on the first day. Leave unnecessary things here and continue towards Razor. Sleep over in the hut and on the second day climb Skrlatica and descent back to Vrata via Vrata Valley route.

ALJAZEV DOM HUT – POGACNIKOV DOM HUT: 4-5h
How to access the hut check Vrata Valley route. From the hut you head up the valley, passing the monument to fallen Partisans in mountains in WW II. View of Triglav’s North face in fantastic. After some 15-20 minutes our path turns right and begins to ascent through beech forest. Further 30 minutes up there is a source. Soon you are on the junction at the bottom of Sovatna, large slope valley that is squeezed between Bovski Gamsovec (2392m), on the left and Stenar (2501m), on the right. Here you have 2 options to reach Pogacnikov Dom hut. Left path via Luknja pass (1758m) and Bovski Gamsovec (2392m) is tougher and much more beautiful with fantastic views, while the right path, via Sovatna and Dovska Vrata pass (2178m), where both trails join again, is shorter and easier.

Via Luknja Pass: 5 hours
Path continues straight forward. After passing by the Bivak pod Luknjo bivouac it reaches the steep scree slopes bellow the pass. Further up slope turns into steep gully, squeezed between the Triglav’s North face and cliffs of Bovski Gamsovec. You reach the pass 2 hours after departing from Aljazev Dom hut.

From the pass path turns right and climbs steep grassy slopes with few rocky steps (fixed ropes). After that path flattens for a moment as it reaches scree basin bellow the cliffs of Pihavec (2414m) and Bovski Gamsovec (2392m). Behind the basin path turn right and climbs exposed and steep grassy ridge with rocky steps. More exposed places are secured with fixed ropes. Cliffs are falling perpendicularly into Vrata valley, deep bellow and view back on Triglav is breathtaking. In 2 hours from Luknja pass you reach Bovski Gamsovec (2392m). Over the cliffs and narrow ridges you descent on Dovska Vrata pass (2178m) where you are joined with Sovatna trail.

Via Sovatna: 4 hours
From the junction path turns right and begins a long ascent up the steep valley, which is combination of steep grass, scree or rocky steps, which are secured on necessary spots. When you stop to rest you can enjoy fantastic view of Triglav. In some 2 hours you reach Dovska Vrata pass (2178m), where from the left we are joined by Luknja pass path.

30 minutes of gradual descent and you have reached Pogacnikov Dom hut.

POGACNIKOV DOM HUT – RAZOR: 2h
From Pogacnikov Dom hut table will direct you towards Razor and Vrsic, on the west. You can’t mistake that we are going into huge, steep scree basin between Planja (2447m) on the left and Razor (2601m), on the right. Between them is Planja pass (2349m). After some time on the flat path reaches the scree slope bellow Razor’s SE tower. It begins to climb steeply over scree and short section of secured cliffs. Behind this path enters mentioned scree basin. This is very wild place. You ascent steeply all the way to the pass that is reached after some 1.20h. Beautiful view opens towards the west and massive Prisojnik (2547m), which occupies half of the horizon.

On the left is Planja (2447m). We turn right as path ascends steeply over scree to the cave with everlasting snow. Here it turns right and reaches southern shoulder of Razor. View towards Skrlatica (2740m) opens here. Deep behind you (left of Planja) is Zadnjica valley, side valley of Trenta with 1500 meters high western face of Kanjavec (2568m) above it. Path turns left and climbs straight to the summit over broken cliffs (40 minutes from Planja pass). 2 hours from Pogacnikov Dom hut.

View from the summit is very wide on all sides. Some 2000 meters bellow is Trenta valley and shiny Soca River. Triglav shows you its most beautiful face.

Essential Gear


In the period without snow (end June till October) usual hiking gear + helmet and ropes (if you wish) for ferrata sections. In snowy period everything from ice axe, crampons, and helmet to ropes.


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

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