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Watzespitze
Mountain/Rock

Watzespitze

 
Watzespitze

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tyrol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.98330°N / 10.78330°E

Object Title: Watzespitze

Elevation: 11587 ft / 3532 m

 

Page By: Huberschwiller

Created/Edited: Mar 18, 2002 / Feb 2, 2006

Object ID: 150899

Hits: 10912 

Page Score: 83.81%  - 18 Votes 

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Overview


The "Watzespitze", also called just "Watze" or "Waze", is the most prominent and highest peak in the Kaunergrat in the Oetztal Alps. The Kaunergrat is located between Kaunertal in the west and Pitztal in the east and spreads from the Venetberg over Zams in the north to the Wannetjoch in the south.
Watze has two summits : the principal summit (3532 m) and the south summit (3503 m) and is situated in the south of the Madatschjoch (3010 m), passage from Verpeil Hut to Kaunergrat Hut. 3 glaciers surround the summit : Madatschferner, Watzeferner and Plangerossferner.The long ridge in western direction ends at Wazekopf (2918 m). In northwest direction, an other ridge leads to Roetkopf (2675 m).
The Watzespitze can be climbed via a glacier route (nowadays the normal route) or via different rock climbs.
All the routes at the "Watzespitze" are long and alpine tours with hanging glaciers, steep ridges and faces to cross, and should not be underestimated!


Getting There


Start points to Watzespitze :
- Kaunergrat Hut (Pitztal)
- Verpeil Hut (Kaunertal)

By car:
To Pitztal : from Imst (or a short way before, depending from where you are coming from) take the road into the "Pitztal" until you reach Plangeross.
To Kaunertal : from Landeck direction Reschenpass to Prutz. Then turn left into Kaunertal

By public transport:
To Pitztal : by train to Imst. From Imst there is a bus to Plangeross.
To Kaunertal : by train to Landeck and then by bus to Feichten

To Kaunergrat Hut :
-from Plangeross there is a hiking trail on which you reach the Kaunergrathuette in about 4 hours. You pass near the waterfall of Lussbach and the alpine pasture of Plangeross. You have beautiful views on the Watzespitze.
- from Tieflehn or Mittelberg over Rieffelsee Hut

To Verpeil Hut : from Feichten 2 h.

To Madatschjoch (3020 m) :
- from Verpeil Hut over Madatschferner 3 h
- from Kaunergrat Hut over Plangerossferner 1 h


Red Tape


No restrictions

Routes Overview


* Glacier normal route 4 h from Kaunergrat Hut

* East ridge 4 h from Kaunergrat Hut (III+)

* North east face 4 h from Kaunergrat Hut (III+)

*North pillar and over the west ridge 3 h from Madatschjoch (IV-)

* West ridge (IV-)

* From the west over Watzekar (III-)

* North side of the west ridge (II)

* South ridge (II)

* South summit over east ridge

* South summit over Watzeferner (ice)

* Wazekopf

On the attached superb photo submitted by beutel you have a wonderful view onto the "Watzespitze". Marked in red is the very popular and worthwhile traverse of the "Watzespitze". Usually you ascent via the East ridge (UIAA Grade IV) and descent via the glacier route (UIAA Grade II).
The "Kaunergrathuette" would be somewhat outside at the lower right corner of the picture.


Other summits of the Kaunergrat


* Bliggspitze 3453 m
* Vordere Oelgrubenspitze
- South point 3452 m
- North point 3450 m
* Verpeilspitze 3423 m
* Rositzkogel 3394 m
* Schwabenkopf 3378 m
* Eiskastenspitze 3371 m
* Seekogel 3357 m
* Rofelewand 3353 m
* Löcherkogel 3324 m
* Hintere Oelgrubenspitze 3291 m
* Hapmesköpfe
- Nördlicher 3289 m
- Südlicher 3240 m
* Gsallkopf or Griesskogel 3277 m
* Mittlerer Eiskastenkopf 3259 m
* Wurmtaler Kopf 3225 m
* Seekarlesschneid 3207 m
* Sonnenkögel
- Oestlicher 3163 m
- Mittlerer 3130 m
- Westlicher 3009 m
* Parstleswand or Portleswand 3096 m
* Gamezkogel 3126 m
* Vorderer Eiskastenkopf 3086 m
* Hochrinneck 3061 m
* Tristkogel or Dristkogel 3058 m
* Brehnkopf or Hoher Radlstein 3016 m
* Grubenkarspitze 3000 m
* Schalwand 2941 m
* Kleiner Dristkogel 2934 m
* Peischlkopf 2913 m
* Stupfarri Vorderer and Mittlerer 2912 m
* Zuragkogel 2891 m
* Schweikert 2881 m
* Hinterer Stupfarri 2896 m
* Falkauner Oelgrubenköpfe
- Aeusserer 2890 m
- Hinterer 2855 m
- Südlicher 2825 m
* Beim Steinmanndl 2898 m
* Grubengrat 2839 m
* Madatschspitzen
- Oestliche 2829 m
- Mittlere 2837 m
- Westliche 2829 m
* Falkauner Köpfle 2836 m
* Stupfarriköpfle 2808 m
* Aherkogel 2803 m
* Hohe Aifenspitze 2779 m
* Madatschkopf 2783 m
* Parstleskogel or Portleskogel 2741 m
* Muttler 2703 m
* Weisser Kogel 2678 m
* Brandkogel 2677 m
* Steinkogel 2635 m
* Stallkogel 2605 m
* Mooskopf 2532 m
* Venet 2512 m
* Kitzmörder 2359 m

Huts


- Kaunergrat Hut
The Kaunergrathuette (2817 m) is the base for the most routes onto the "Watzespitze".
The hut is open from end of June to mid September and offers 60 places.
Tel.: 0043/5413/86242

- Verpeil Hut

- Rieffelsee Hut


Mountain Conditions


In last summer the normal ice route to Watzespitze developed dangerous, difficult and in later summer impossible. Of course we don't know how the next summer will be. But August may be too late to find good conditions on the glacier.
German speakers may find reports about the conditions at the forum

Guides and Maps


The following guide book and the map should be essential if you would like to do some hiking or climbing tours at "Watzespitze" or other mountains in the Oetztaler Alps.

Walter Klier
Alpenvereinsführer Ötztaler Alpen
Bergverlag Rother, München, 1995
ISBN 3-7633-1123-8

Alpenvereinskarte 1:25 000
Blatt Nr. 30/3 Ötztaler Alpen
Deutscher Alpenverein, München,

Climbing History


First climb : A. Ennemoser (iceway until the collar between the two summits and then over the ridge). Probably also first ascent of the south summit. Way down over the Wazeferner to Kaunertal : 1869.

East ridge : B. Pezzei, L. Schärme, J. Walch : 1912

Northeast face : P. Kelm, H. Kötterl : 1926

Northpillar and over the westridge (also first way down the south face) : I. Hechenbleikner : 1904

Westridge :
- R. Platzmann, J. Praxmarer (guide) from Kaunertal : 1902
- Henning and Sommer over southside of the west ridge and over the west ridge at the end : 1897
- Westridge integral : K. Berger, E. Franzelin, I. Hechenbleikner : 1903

External Links

Images