Whorehouse Hoses

About the climb

It is a very scenic ice climb with a short approach hike from Eureka parking lot. I think even to hike to the base of the climb is worth the effort. The approach goes through a narrow winding canyon. The climb is well protected from wind since it runs inside deep chimney/canyon systems. There are short hiking sections between the ice falls.

Eureka is abandoned mining community 9 miles northeast of Silverton, Colorado.

Why Whorehouse Hoses? I heard that there was a brothel near by, therefore this name.

The first pitch is a full 200 foot (68 meter) fun! So, bring a 70 meter rope, and 2nd rope for the descent. There are fixed anchors along the climb, and the anchors are easy to spot (but I heard that higher up the anchors can get buried in a deep snow).
Jack Roberts in his Colorado Ice describes descent to use either two 50 meter or one 60 meter ropes for rappel. This is not true if you are planning to use the fixed anchors. Obviously, you can do it with short ropes if you are planning to make V-threads, or leave a screw behind.

Supposedly, the climb is listed on Guy Lacelle's list of the Top 100 Ice Climbs in the World.

External Links

Whorehouse Hoses on Mountain Project

Approach

View from the parking lot	Approach to Whorehouse Hoses
Narrow winding canyon on approach	More on the approach hike
Danika on approach	Me at the base of the climb
1st pitch	1st pitch is nearly 70 meters (200 ft) long
Close up - 1st pitch	1st pitch - looking down
2nd pitch	2nd pitch looking down
Pitch 2 = my first ice lead	Top section of 2nd pitch
Section between pitch 2 and 3	2 options on 3rd pitch
3rd pitch = the left ice fall	View from my belay stance at the bottom of 3rd pitch
4th pitch	4th pitch - close up
Top of pitch 4	Descent on the left and ascent on the right - 3rd pitch
Right ice fall on pitch 3	Rappel on pitch 2

Images

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