(1) Whore House Hoses (WI 4/5)*** Walking up through a slot canyon you will reach a 10ft ice shelf (may be covered with avalanche debris), walk up and over the ice shelf reaching the base of the route. (with a 70m rope you can belay out of range of debris but with a 60m rope you will be right at the base of route) The first pitch is WI5 on the right and WI4/5 (depending on how early in the season it is) and is deceptively long (in excess of 200ft/60m ~65m long). After completing the long vertical section on the first pitch (~42m) there is a section of lower angle ice. Use caution here since the ice CAN be thin and hollow (it was approximately 1" thick when I did it and below it is running water) The top of the first pitch reaches a bolt belay station. From here, continue up left in the slot to the 2/3 pitches (WI4/5) which can be taken as one pitch with a long rope. Rappel the route.
(2) Bad Ass Pencil WI 5/6 - depending on its conditions, this strenuous pillar of poor ice can be either thick and protected or thin and scary. It is located just above the road, nice view from the parking area. 15 min approach.
(3) First Gully (WI3) - probably the easiest climb in the area, rolling ice with short sections of WI 3, bolted anchor stations, about 5 pitches long. Good beginner ice leader climb.
(4) Second Gully (WI 3/4)** A series of steps with the first and last one being the longest (the first step can be done as WI 4, or more like WI 3 by zigzagging up and avoiding the steeper ice) with a series of smaller steps in between the two (WI2+) connected by either snow covered ice (most probably) or ice steps. The descent is to the right at mid route, below the final flow. From the top of the route traverse left to either rap into the gully from a tree with slings, descend to the walk-off ridge or descend through the trees to a slab- descend left towards the gully to the descent ridge. I found rappelling the route easier than the descend. There are fixed anchors.
(5) Goldrush (WI4/5 mixed 600ft) - Is very seasonal dependent. In a good season can be thunker ice all the way to the top that can be taken in 3 long pitches. In other seasons the first pitch can be completely devoid or partially devoid of ice for the first 100 ft and involve dry tooling/rockclimbing. Second pitch just below the second belay/rappel station can be devoid of ice or it can be thin. Take screws, cams, nuts and thin pitons. Route is descended by rappelling or if there is another party on the route, continue up the final slabs for about 500ft. Traverse left staying pretty high until you reach the Second Gully, gully drop down into the trees on the left side of the gully and travese to the descent on the right side. Drop down and traverse back to your packs. Again, there are new rappel anchors fixed along the route, and it is easier to rappel down.
(6) Stairway to Heaven (WI4:800ft) *** - one of the most popular climbs in the area. The climb is nicely seen from the parking area and from your approach. It is usually done in 4 pitches with the first and 3rd pitches being more difficult WI4, and pitch 2 and 4 easier pitches. Descent by rappel.