San Juan Range
Ice climbing in Southwest Colorado
South Park Pillar, Ouray Ice Park
Give me a little slack, this will evolve over time (Rob).
And I am an old lady, and never know what I will do in the next minute. I may get to go on big ice, but I may just hang out in the park.(Liba)
This climb was awesome. To bad it seldom comes in.
Upper Haflin Falls Near Durang Durango is an old western town with a name as colorful as the surrounding setting. It is a gateway to San Juan Mountains and the Four Corners region.
Because of the arid climate in this area of the state, the ice climbing is very limited and the routes do not form as frequently or reliably as in other areas.
Below areas do not describe all climbs, just the most popular ones. We will be adding more. I am collaborating on this SP site with Rob, who I have never met. The page's main layout and idea comes from Rob, I am just putting little details in.
Durango Area Ice
This climb was awesome. To bad it seldom comes in.
Upper Haflin Falls Near Durang
Because of the arid climate in this area of the state, the ice climbing is very limited and the routes do not form as frequently or reliably as in other areas.
Durango is a college town, and offers a large variety of hotel accommodations and restaurants (several very fancy ones too).
1. Haflin Canyon - it is about 3 miles out of Durango. park at the US Forest Service Road signed for Haflin Creek. The Lower
Falls (20m, WI4) is at the mouth of the canyon and is usually top roped. A farther 1.5 miles up the canyon is the Upper Falls
(40m, WI4).
I. South Mineral Creek - popular early in the season. The road to the South Mineral Campground is typically open until heavy snow fall
Whorehouse Hoses For the 3rd pitch, you can either go left or climb a grade harder by going right. Above this the climbing is uninteresting and involves a lot of slogging.
3. Engineer Pass/Red Mountain Pass Area - beautiful road between Ouray and Silverton. The closest to town would be Horsetail Falls - very popular climb, get there early. Expect lots of spectators from Hwy 550.
2. Sherman Area - many climbs in the area.
2. Colorado Ice Climbers Guide By Cameron Burns
3. Mountain Project's Web Site.
2. Cascade Canyon - is a small but exciting area close to Hwy 550. The area is about 1 mile north of the Durango Mountain
resort near the Cascade Village Resort.
There are many short climbs here, and it is a great place for top roping or when little time is available. Lots of curtains,
hanging pillars, and cool mixed climbs.
1. Bridalveil Falls WI5+/6 - a climb of legendary stature and beauty, first ascended in 1974 by Jeff Lowe and Michael Weis.
Usually done in 4 pitches. This is also a climb which cost the life of Jack Roberts.
2. Bear Creek Canyon Falls WI3/5- approach from town of Telluride. The climb follows the Bear Creek drainage. The gorge
is full of challenges for beginners and experts alike.
3. Ames Ice Hose WI5/6 M6 - this climb is located at Ophir/Ames area. Many times the first pitch is done in rock shoes. They
say that the first pitch is generally psychological and physical crux pitch. They recommend to bring a head lamp since many parties
underestimate the time needed.
4. Ames Falls WI4/5 - located behind the power plant in Ames. There are upper and lower falls, you can toprope Lower Falls,
I. South Mineral Creek - popular early in the season. The road to the South Mineral Campground is typically open until heavy snow fall
(?December). November - you can just drive in, later on a long approach on skis, snowshoes and avalanche risk.
1. Campground Couloir WI4 - This is striking blue strand of ice visible from the road. The first 3 pitches are WI4, and most parties rappel the route from here. There is some WI2 ice above.
1. Campground Couloir WI4 - This is striking blue strand of ice visible from the road. The first 3 pitches are WI4, and most parties rappel the route from here. There is some WI2 ice above.
2. Direct North Face WI4/5 - this route wanders up thinly iced slabs and ramps, which lead to steep pencils of ice dropping over short rock bands. There are usually
about five steps of ice, any of which may be easily walked away from.
3. Snowblind WI4 - This is obvious ice filled chimney that drops off Peak 12,579. It is much longer than it looks from below. Most parties do the first five pitches.
3. Snowblind WI4 - This is obvious ice filled chimney that drops off Peak 12,579. It is much longer than it looks from below. Most parties do the first five pitches.
4. Campground Couloir WI4 - This is the striking blue stand of ice visible from the road. The first three pitches are WI4, and most parties rappel the route from there.
5. Sundance WI4/5 - This is the waterfall that should be visible from Hwy 550. One very long rope length of WI4 or WI5 climbing. Descend by walking off to the right.
II. Eureka
1. Whorehouse Hoses WI4/5 - this climb is located in a deep chimney system that ices up pretty thickly. The route follows this chimney, and the first pitch is 68 meters long.
1. Whorehouse Hoses WI4/5 - this climb is located in a deep chimney system that ices up pretty thickly. The route follows this chimney, and the first pitch is 68 meters long.
Bring 2 ropes to rappel down (you can leave the 2nd rope at the top of the first pitch). There are short walks in between the pitches, and the whole climb is increadibly scenic.
Whorehouse Hoses
2. Stairway to Heaven WI4 - this is very obvious, blue, staircase of ice flow in the area - a most popular outing here. Can get very busy on weekends. There are fixed belay stations along the climb, and you can see this waterfall from Eureka parking lot.
3. First Gully WI3/4 - this route meanders up the east face of Peak 12,896. Climb four pitches of rolling WI2/3, the last pitch is the best. Rappel the route.
First Gully on SP
4. Second Gully WI4 - It is mostly low angle, but often thin ice. Many variations are possible. Located just a little bit up from First Gully.
4. Second Gully WI4 - It is mostly low angle, but often thin ice. Many variations are possible. Located just a little bit up from First Gully.
Second Gully album on SP
5. Goldrush WI4/5 - bring rock gear for this one. A beautiful ramp up the left wall of a big left-facing corner. The climbing on the first pitch may be very thi
Rapping through the Skylight
Gravity's Rainbow in super fat condition 1/2008.
1. The Ouray Ice Park - this is the most popular area in San Juans for climbers off all abilities. You can top rope many climbs, more than 200 different routes right next to each other. It a free park.
5. Goldrush WI4/5 - bring rock gear for this one. A beautiful ramp up the left wall of a big left-facing corner. The climbing on the first pitch may be very thi
Ouray Area Ice
Rapping through the Skylight
Gravity's Rainbow in super fat condition 1/2008.
1. The Ouray Ice Park - this is the most popular area in San Juans for climbers off all abilities. You can top rope many climbs, more than 200 different routes right next to each other. It a free park.
Annual Ouray Ice Festival - held every year in the beginning of January is very well attended.
The ice park was developed by tapping into the aqueduct above the canyon and allowing water to flow and freeze along the canyon's length. It is absolutely amazing place, unfortunately getting
The ice park was developed by tapping into the aqueduct above the canyon and allowing water to flow and freeze along the canyon's length. It is absolutely amazing place, unfortunately getting
crowded, especially on weekend.
2. Camp Bird Road Area - another very popular area for ice climbing located just a little bit above the town of Ouray. Great place if you get tired (or need a break from the ice park). Many different routes,
you have to be able to lead climb, and many dry tooling routes too. See this SP site Camp Bird Road for more information.
3. Engineer Pass/Red Mountain Pass Area - beautiful road between Ouray and Silverton. The closest to town would be Horsetail Falls - very popular climb, get there early. Expect lots of spectators from Hwy 550.
Kennedy Gully - became really famous after this You-Tube video is located at the Engineer Pass turn-off. This 4WD road is closed in the winter.
Gravity Rainbow WI5 - faces south and does not come in every year. Jack Roberts says in his book Colorado Ice "When in shape, this is among the top five routes in San Juans".
4. Dexter Creek Slabs WI3/4 - located just north of Ouray. Another popular climb, relatively wide, 2 parties can climb next to each other. Usually done in 3 pitches. Descend either rappel or walk-off.
Dexter Creek on SP
Treasure Falls WI4+ - Wolf Creek Pass area.
One of the best place to ski in Colorado
Relaxed atmosphere of Lake City Ice Park.
Easy leading on North Clear Waterfall WI3.
1. Lake City Ice Park - small, but a lovely park, very homely atmosphere. Lake City is more isolated, but very nice historical center. I think definitively worth visiting. They have an Ice Festival too - competitors are mostly locals and "normal" people, unlike Ouray where you hear famous names and see professionals during the ice festival competition.
Wolf Creek/Pagosa Springs Area Ice.
Treasure Falls WI4+ - Wolf Creek Pass area.
One of the best place to ski in Colorado
Wolf Creek is located on Hwy 160 - photo of Treasure Falls (on the left) taken from the Hwy. (we went skiing and I could not find anyone to go climbing those with me:). Treasure Falls are nice to visit in the summer, there is a nice trail up there. I remember seeing once a group of handicapped men struggling on a rough trail to get there in wheelchairs.
I usually go there for skiing in the winter. They say skiing at Wolf Creek is second only to the very best in Utah.
It is also good for ice climbing because most of the climbs are snow-fed. I could see many ice falls along the highway.
Most of the ice routes are in a narrow two mile corridor about 8 miles southwest of South Fork. The rest of the routes are over the Wolf Creek Pass on the Pagosa Springs.
Where to Stay: the best for ice climbers is South Fork (closer to more ice routes), Pagosa is a little bit further away for ice routes (and also further away if you drive from Denver). But Pasosa offers more luxury in the terms of hotels, motels and beautiful hot springs - definitively worth visiting. Pagosa means in Ute "healing waters".
I usually go there for skiing in the winter. They say skiing at Wolf Creek is second only to the very best in Utah.
It is also good for ice climbing because most of the climbs are snow-fed. I could see many ice falls along the highway.
Most of the ice routes are in a narrow two mile corridor about 8 miles southwest of South Fork. The rest of the routes are over the Wolf Creek Pass on the Pagosa Springs.
Where to Stay: the best for ice climbers is South Fork (closer to more ice routes), Pagosa is a little bit further away for ice routes (and also further away if you drive from Denver). But Pasosa offers more luxury in the terms of hotels, motels and beautiful hot springs - definitively worth visiting. Pagosa means in Ute "healing waters".
Lake City Area Ice
Relaxed atmosphere of Lake City Ice Park.
Easy leading on North Clear Waterfall WI3.
2. Sherman Area - many climbs in the area.
3. Slumgullion & Spring Creek Passes - located southeast of Lake City are two moderate and popular waterfalls that are found just off Hwy 149 near Spring Creek Pass.
Spring Creek Pass is the southern portion of a double summited pass that links Lake City with Creede, South Fork, and Hwy 160.
North Clear Creek Falls WI3+ - from Lake City travel south of Hwy 149 toward Creede for 21.5 miles. Turn left on FR 510 at a sign for "Falls". Walk or ski 0.5 miles
to the climb and rappel to the base.
South Clear Creek Falls WI3 - Continue 3 miles farther south on Hwy 149 from North Clear Creek, or about 24 miles south of Lake City. Turn left onto FR 510 and drive
to the parking lot for the falls. Follow a well marked trail less than 0.5 mile to the climb.
Recommended References
1. Colorado Ice By Jack Roberts2. Colorado Ice Climbers Guide By Cameron Burns
3. Mountain Project's Web Site.
