Aconcagua Climber's Log

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Troy B

Troy B - Sep 29, 2010 3:46 pm Date Climbed: Feb 12, 2002

Route: Polish Traverse  Sucess!

Amazing trip on an interesting mountain. Climbed in a group of three and were unsupported.
View from the top

BrookTroutLeiphart - May 20, 2010 2:54 pm

NOLS

Polish Route. Spent 3 nights at 20,400'? on the side of the Polish glacier. 1st day= 5 summit. 2nd day= 5 turn back-snowing hard. 3rd day= myself and 2 guides break 2' fresh powder. Half way to summit on steep slope we hear the "Womph" and I feel the snow settle. Lucky=no avalanche=we should NOT have been there. Now I know to dig a pit to test the snow. 31 days on the mountain and only saw 2 other people besides our group of 13! Phil Powers goes on to summit K2 w/o O2 and Steve Goyal summits Everest with Scott Fischer and I finish the 50 state HP's!

bruno baschung

bruno baschung - Mar 1, 2010 1:31 pm Date Climbed: Jan 24, 1992

7 s N° III  Sucess!

I climbed Aconcagua with a commercial Tour, but was lucky to do it with patrick Berhault, so it was an incredible beautiful time I had during this trip. We did it via the "falso polaco" route encountering some pb at high camp where we had to wait 3 days long, but finally made it. Not a difficult climb for sure compared to many others, even other Argentinian 6000m peaks. Alas the mountain become more and more overcrowded, but it remains the highest of the andes. Still, it's a dangerous mountain because.... normally, it's an easy one!be careful!

Bruno BASCHUNG

Sieto

Sieto - Feb 22, 2010 3:13 pm Date Climbed: Feb 12, 2010

Aconcagua, normal route  Sucess!

Reached the summit via the normal route with 5 of our group of 7. The first half of the climb was in ok conditions, but during the traverse and in the Canaleta the weahter worsened. We reached a very windy but cloud-covered summit around 16.00h.
10 hours up, 4 down. Great trip!

ibndalight

ibndalight - Jan 19, 2010 7:01 am Date Climbed: Dec 23, 2009

False Polish

Altitude Sickness prevented summit. Bummer trip.

Quadaxial

Quadaxial - Jan 14, 2010 10:52 pm Date Climbed: Jan 9, 2010

Polish Direct success!  Sucess!

My partner and I hooked up with someone at the last minute. Was the hardest day of my life. 12 hours to the summit topping out at 4pm, but perfect conditions. Never felt altitude like that before, was in a dream like state on the summit. Took the False Polish back to Camp 2.

William Marler

William Marler - Dec 28, 2009 1:33 pm Date Climbed: Dec 16, 2009

Good weather  Sucess!

3 of nine members of our group made the summit. I thank the weather gods for the exceptional weather.

melchior

melchior - Dec 28, 2009 1:25 pm

Been there in Feb this year

Unfortunately I didn't summit due to altitude sickness but I'll be back for sure!

Darek - Dec 10, 2009 4:48 pm Date Climbed: Jan 11, 2009

Normal-Polish Traverse Loop  Sucess!

The most serious mountain I have walked to. 8 days to summit including 5 days to ascent one single peak. Photos and a report from our trip (external link).

Petro

Petro - Aug 9, 2009 11:53 am Date Climbed: Mar 5, 2009

Polish Traverse - solo  Sucess!

An epic experience. I planned to do the Polish direct, but when I got up to camp two the weather turned really bad (strong winds and snowfall). I made a few attempts to go up, but hence I was the only one to stay in the camp I found it impossible to climb the glacier by myself. All in all, I spent 5 days in C2 (5800m) on Polish Route and then used a good day for a transfer to Colera - C2 on the Normal Route (6000m), since there was too much risk of an avalanche on the glacier. Unluckilly I lost my sunglasses during the traverse and had to spend two more days in a tent curing snow blindness. Another team was trying twice to go up to the summit at the time but had to draw back due to strong winds and lots of snow on the route. So it turned out that I would have lost those two days anyway. They decided to retreat and left me their spare sunglasses and some eyedrops which would help me go down the next day. So I remained the last person high on the mountain.
But the next day my eyes were much better and the weather was ok despite the strong winds. I left late (09:00 am) but managed to get to the summit. There was relatively a lot of snow on the way and I had to make a new track by myself so it was quite hard. While descending I met two other climbers who had started straight from Nido and seemed really exhausted. Anyway, they made it to the summit too - big respect.
I hadn't had much respect for this mountain before this climb, but 19 days on the mountain made me change this opinion. It may happen that the weather will be great, but if it's not, the mountain becomes quite serious, even on classical routes. It was a good lesson for me.

Tbacon251

Tbacon251 - Jul 14, 2009 2:45 pm Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2009

Almost!

Almost made it! The weather was very bad and the snow very deep. Slow me way down. Made it 21,700 feet!!!! Will go back in a couple years.

cstraveller - Jun 24, 2009 9:13 am Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2007

Normal Route  Sucess!

Horcones - 2 x Confluencia - 3 x Plaza de Mulas - Nido de Condores - 3 x Camp Berlin - Plaza de Mulas - Horcones (11 days from park entry to park exit)

attimount

attimount - May 25, 2009 10:59 pm Date Climbed: Feb 19, 2008

Normal Route  Sucess!

Beutifull day with no clouds on the sky, climbed from Nino de Condores in ~14 h. The best trip in my life.

JanVanGenk

JanVanGenk - Apr 29, 2009 4:12 am Date Climbed: Feb 8, 2009

Polish Traverse  Sucess!

Traversed the mountain from Plaza Argentina to Plaza de Mulas. Spent some horrible nights in storm in Camp 2 of the Polish route. Luckily got a weather window to summit just 2 days before the expiry of my permit.

alpine climber

alpine climber - Mar 12, 2009 1:28 pm Date Climbed: Mar 6, 2009

Normal Route  Sucess!

Heavy snows and high winds delayed the summit bid, but I and two other American mountaineers reached the top after 14 days in the park. Very strong winds summit day, difficult to stand up straight on any ridge and along the traverse. Crampons were necessary the whole day as the route was covered with wind-blown snow and ice. 14.5 hours up and back, but beautiful all the way.

punchline

punchline - Mar 11, 2009 8:37 am Date Climbed: Jan 31, 2006

The Winds ...

were not our friends ... made it 100' shy of the summit and turned back. Beautiful country and great wineries to ease the disappointment!

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Feb 24, 2009 12:07 am Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2009

Polish Traverse  Sucess!

Trip Report

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Feb 13, 2009 6:12 pm Date Climbed: Feb 12, 2009

Rout Climbed: Normal Route - Plaza de Mulas.  Sucess!

Climbed solo to America's highest peak. It took me 11 days to do it because hauling my loads up by myself was hard, but mostly because of bad weather.

I spent a night in Berlin Refuge (5,850 meters) in the middle of a bad snowstorm, very windy and cold up there!. I managed to descend to a lower elevation, Nido de Condores (5,300 meters) the following morning, where I spent a couple of more snowstorms.

A beautiful view from the top (6,962 m/22,841 ft.) A dream come true.

Found new and old friends who were part of this new adventure as Vanina, Clavo and Colo, all from Argentina. Thank you guys!

Can't wait to climb it again by the other routes as well.

Aconcagua Trip Report Here

SteveMarr

SteveMarr - Feb 1, 2009 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Feb 14, 2001

Normal Route  Sucess!

Climbed via the Normal Route with Dan Cherry. We couldn't have asked for better weather during the entire trip.

Olaf

Olaf - Jan 26, 2009 10:18 am Date Climbed: Jan 21, 2009

Polish Traverse  Sucess!

Sumitted via the Polish Traverse.
Nice weather till the summit ridge when it started to snow.
Wonderfull experience and a tough day out!

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