14 days in total via false polish route...
Attempted. Will try again.
Attempted to climb Aconcagua late in season, but a freak snowstorm which dumped over a meter of snow, making carrying to high camps difficult, followed by a windstorm that lasted longer than expected combined with worsening cough and altitude sickness made me turn back. Next time I will go during the Christmas holidays!
Great weather most of the way for our two-man team. The summit was cloudless and windless and had incredible views. Got to the summit on Day 11 and spent a total of 14 days on the mountain.
After spending a couple weeks acclimatizing on other peaks we were prepared for a relatively quick climb of Aconcagua. We reached high camp (White Rocks) in 4 days from the Horcones trailhead. Our forecasted clear, calm day leading into a good summit day, turned into about a foot and a half of new snow from 3 pm to midnight. After digging our way out of our tents the next day, we made the long snowy hike back down to base camp. There were no less than 80 tents at high camp that day, with everyone shooting for the same good weather window. That morning we only saw one group of 4 brave the new snow and impending storm, and head towards the top.
Number 4, up the False Polish. Beautiful summit day, great expedition!
No success on the mountain this time other than having adventures keeping the camp sites intact in the high winds. Hunkered down at camp one holding the tent up from the inside for 12 hours straight. Some rest day. Two attempts at moving to camp 2 prevented by 100k per hour plus winds at Armeghino col. Returned to base camp to find it mostly destroyed with people heading home who no longer had tents. Most were destroyed in the storm we waited out at Camp 1. So it seems we were lucky after all.
Up on Guanacos (had the whole mountain to ourselves except for one AAI group), down on normal route
Had some major winds at our Camp 2 (Nido) that collapsed and broke our tent; forced us down to wait it out at basecamp. Went for it all after a day wait, summit from Nido. Very windy throughout the trip, luckily caught a break for the big day 13 days in. Out on day 15, great trip!
Another Aconcagua summit, #3 for me and another very successful trip with 100% of our group (10 folks total) on top. Crystal clear skies, light wind and stunning views all around.
Second summit for me on a beautiful day, 100% success for our group of 12. Only group on top when we arrived!
had to wait at nido condores for a better wind forecast... in the end we were lucky and had a great summit day with mild wind and good visibility...
Forced back down off of the mountain by extreemly high winds. Base camp ravaged by winds. Worst wind conditions I have faced in the 25 years I have been coming to Argentina. Better luck next time I guess. Regards William
Summited around 3:30pm New Year's Day. Cloudy as heck, and a brilliant snowstorm down to High Camp.
Summit from C2 via Polish Traverse. Great weather!!
Attempted the Polish Glacier Route, but traversed to the Normal Route due to bad weather. Very cold with high winds. Summitted from Berlin with Dan Leeth, Melvin Downing, Rob Wells and guide Peter Getzels on 2/17/83. Although successful, summit day the toughest single day I have ever experienced.
Second of the seven, classic climb
Weather wasn't great and gave us a brief window after turning around twice. Went Mulas to Nido de Condores in a day then left the next night to get to the summit and back with a bit of help from the rangers. Returned all the way to Penitentes the next day from Nido.
Got just wanted I wanted for Christmas!
February 16, 1997 failed solo attempt up False Polish Glacier Route on Aconcagua. My slow acclimatization kept me lower (managed to save a solo climber’s life who was probably dying of pulmonary edema, you’re welcome) than my two team mates (Philippe G./ Thomas B.) Phil and Tom summitted via the False Polish route on Feb. 14. I left our camp below the Polish Glacier for a solo attempt on Feb. 16.
Cruised to the Independencia hut, but then the weather began to deteriorate. My traverse of the Gran Acarreo was in near whiteout conditions, with high winds and this is where I began to suffer from high altitude sickness. I managed to scramble up to the top of La Canaleta, when my condition, and the weather, became very serious.
Sitting alone in a complete whiteout with the temperature likely below -30 degrees Celsius with probably 80 km/hour winds and feeling like my worst hangover ever (no energy, strong desire to vomit, severe headache) a group descending from the summit approached. Their leader, a friendly English speaking policeman from Medoza (who had just completed his fourth Aconcagua summit) told me that the weather was only going to get worse and likely the Viento Blanco could occur. I assured the gentleman I was fine as they moved on. I just sat there the next half hour, sort of aware of my position, completely alone, questioning what I should do. Eventually I descended.
I am guessing I reached 6900 metres (?). For about ten years it really bothered me that I didn’t push on, and thought about returning to Aconcagua. Now, with a family and a busy career, I am happy to pursue local summits. But maybe when I retire ;-)