Aiguille Dibona 3131m

Page Type
Trip Report
Location:
Europe
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Jul 31, 2014
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Summer
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Aiguille Dibona 3131m
Created On: Aug 12, 2014
Last Edited On: Aug 12, 2014

Aiguille Dibona - A golden needle in the sky 


Greetings and salutations from a very wet and grey Bristol in the UK! 

Having just recently returned from the Ecrins region in the French Alps and despite having mixed weather like most out there, my partners in crime and I attempted to fulfil a long held ambition and climb the classic "Face Sud Classique" aka "Voie Berthet/Boell/Stofer" (with the odd harder variation) on the mighty Aiguille Dibona 3131m.

First climbed by Angelo Dibona in 1913 and although of modest height, the Dibona has inspired generations of climbers and is surely one of the most beautiful and spectacular mountains (along with the Matterhorn) in Europe. Gaston Rebuffat himself wrote about Dibona : "This needle is a monument of stone given to mankind by the earth and the time, an extraordinary sculpture in the sky, the light and the silence of Oisans. The same achievements of the climbers on another mountain would not be so marvellous. This needle was a question, climbing on her a response".

Anyway the entertainment was duly recorded so did we make it to the summit? Well for any Summit-Posteers interested in viewing a short HD film of this superb route and beautiful mountain then please use the embedded link:
 
 
If you wish to sample the full High Def experience and your computer has enough va va voom, you should be able to change the "Quality" icon to at least 720p HD in the bottom right hand corner on the You Tube screen. Anyway all constructive feedback or comments welcome and hopefully it will inspire a few folks to visit this spectacular area of the French Alps, stay in the superb Soreiller Hut and climb the Dibona!

Cheers and happy climbing :-)

Dave






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Viewing: 1-6 of 6
markhallam

markhallam - Aug 13, 2014 1:26 am - Voted 10/10

Great climbing...

...and excellent filming - move over Hollywood, Bald Eagle Productions are coming!
Must say, I'm quite (uncharacteristically) attracted to Dibona (great big pointy things not my normal choice for climbing) - but I believe there is a short PD route to the top?
I have tentative plans to take my middle offspring & his little family to the Ecrins area next year - and the Soreiller Refuge looks to be a great place to take all, but with the option to take my son up a shortish route whilst there...
Best wishes, Mark

Bald Eagle

Bald Eagle - Aug 13, 2014 5:50 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Great climbing...

Hey Mark
Muchos gracias for your kind words and positive feedback!
Yep the Dibona is a very beautiful and captivating mountain and as you say there is a short PD (about 2 pitchs of VD in English money)up the back. However be aware that this is the usual descent route and there are likely to be lots of climbers abbing down on any nice day of weather! The Soreiller refuge is very nice and the guardian Martine is a delight and very helpful so I hope your trip comes together next year as it is a magical place to visit! :-) Cheers Dave

markhallam

markhallam - Aug 13, 2014 12:29 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Great climbing...

Thanks Dave
Might just be up to 2 pitches of VD for this mountain (although have to say my rock-climbing days are pretty much in the past now - apart from the odd hard 'scramble') Noted about abbing climbers... is there fixed protection by the way?
BTW - I also enjoyed Bald Eagle productions for Monch Sanction, which was a happy reminder of taking my wife up back in 2007 - and also Eiger Mitellegi, although that is one that would definitely be outside my comfort zone now!
Cheers, Mark

Bald Eagle

Bald Eagle - Aug 14, 2014 3:55 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Great climbing...

Hi Mark
To the best of my hazy recollection (end of a long day and abbing down the voie normale) it is a straightforward and well-cairned walk from the hut of about 300m height gain, finishing with an easy stroll over a short snow slope (might require axe and/or crampons in other years but we did not bother!). Then there is an exposed scramble traversing left to right as you look up which we and most other parties roped up for in descent, easily protected with a few slings to the start of the proper climbing in the breche. From there it is about 2 pitches of VD and obviously the belay/ab stations are well-equipped but I do not recall any pitons or bolts on the route itself though I may be wrong. I would take a small rack (nuts + friends) and the Soreiller refuge guardian (the lovely Martine) would be able to advise on what gear would be required. Hope this helps matey! Cheers Dave

Silvia Mazzani

Silvia Mazzani - Aug 13, 2014 10:36 am - Voted 10/10

Great monument!

And great place to climb! I had been twice there, but i always had bad weather!
All the best. Cheers. Silvia

Bald Eagle

Bald Eagle - Aug 14, 2014 3:59 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Great monument!

Grazie Silvia and the Dibona is a very beautiful place to climb
with some superb routes such as Voie Madier + Visite Obligataire as well as the Face Sud Classique. Definitely worth a "third time lucky visit" for you and the sun will surely shine from dawn to dusk! :-) Cheers Dave

Viewing: 1-6 of 6


Aiguille Dibona 3131m

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