Overview
Blüemlisalphorn from the north
Blüemlisalphorn is the highest peak in the
Blüemlisalp Group. Located at the east end of the long ridge shared with Morgenhorn and Wyssi Frau (Weisse Frau in German) it is the usual ending point of the classic
Morgenhorn - Blüemlisalphorn Traverse. Its north face is a popular ice climb. The Northwest Ridge is the easiest ascent and descent route. The rocky south side of the peak is rarely climbed because of the poor rock quality.
L. Stephen, R. Liveing, J.K. Stone with M. Anderegg, P. Simond, and F. Ogi made the first ascent of the mountain via the Northwest Ridge on 27 August 1860.
Blüemlisalphorn is the Swiss spelling, Blümlisalphorn the German.
Getting There
Blüemlisalphorn from Kandersteg
Climbs on the north are approached from the
Blümlisalp Hut which can be reached from either
Griesalp or more commonly from
Kandersteg. From Kandersteg, it is 5 to 7 hours to the hut depending on your fitness level, ambition, and whether or not you shorten the walk with a ride on the lift.
There are routes from the
Fründen Hut - not often climbed.
Routes Overview
Northeast Ridge
Normal Route. Looking down...
The three most commonly climbed routes on Blüemlisalphorn are:
The normal route is the Northwest Ridge rated PD or PD+. In good conditions there is little difficulty, but there are some steep limestone plates that can become icy and dangerous requiring great care.
The North Face is an ice route of variable standard and changing features. It is rated D- and is about 500 m.
The Northeast Ridge from Wyssi Frau is the last stage in the
Morgenhorn - Blüemlisalphorn Traverse (normally done E to W). It is described as being more demanding than the Rochefort Ridge on Mt. Blanc or the Liskamm traverse in the Pennine Alps. It is a marvelous narrow ridge with large cornices on the south side. AD in good conditions, it can be dangerous in poor conditions or bad weather.
Gallery - The Mountain
Blüemlisalphorn from the north
Blüemlisalphorn from the west later in season
Telephoto from the NW showing the upper part of the normal route.
Bluemlisalp Group from Allmenalp - west
Gallery - Climbing Photos
Low on the normal route.
High on the normal route - Oeschinensee below
High on the normal route
Northeast Ridge
Northeast Ridge
On the North Face