Overview
Wyssi Frau from Morgenhorn. Northeast Ridge before you.
The Northwest Ridge in profile on the right
Wyssi Frau is the middle peak of the famous
Morgenhorn - Blüemslialphorn Traverse,
but it is a fine objective itself. Its northwest ridge is a beautiful sweeping snow slope which makes a fine ascent and can be used to shortenthe famous traverse to just the most spectacular part avoiding what to
some seems a rather tedious ascent of Morgenhorn.
E. von Fellenberg and A. Roth with C. Lauener, J. Bischoff, and K. Blatter made the first ascent of Wyssi Frau on 2 July 1862 via the Northwest Ridge.
Wyssi Frau is the Swiss spelling Weisse Frau the German.
Getting There
The Bluemlisalp-Hut Wyssi Frau on the left
Climbs on the north side are approached from the
Blümlisalp Hut which can be reached from either
Griesalp or more commonly from
Kandersteg.
From Kandersteg, it is 5 to 7 hours to the hut depending on your fitness level, ambition, and whether or not you shorten the walk with a
ride on the lift.
Routes Overview
Wyssi Frau NW Ridge facing camera.
The three most commonly climbed routes on Wyssi Frau are:
The normal route is the Northwest Ridge rated PD or PD+. In good conditions it is a snow climb of little difficulty, but depending on theseason it can be icy and near the top there can be rock slabs to climb.
The 300 m North Face is an ice route of variable standard and changing features.
The Northeast Ridge from Morgenhorn is the first stage in the
Morgenhorn - Blüemlisalphorn Traverse (normally done E to W). It is a narrow ridge with large cornices onthe south side. PD+ in good conditions, it can be dangerous in poor conditions or bad weather.
Climbing Photos
On the NE Ridge Morgenhorn to Wyssi Frau
Wyssi Frau NW Ridge
Wyssi Frau NW Ridge
Wyssi Frau, last rocks before the summit