Broken Top Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 91
Dennis Poulin

Dennis Poulin - Sep 22, 2006 9:21 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 1999

Northwest Ridge  Sucess!

I day hiked this one by myself from the Broken Top TH. Nice long hike on a warm autumn day.

Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Sep 11, 2006 7:31 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2006

Second time up...  Sucess!

Second time up this cool mountain. This is a good annual climb. Quick & scenic. 70 deg at the summit at 10:00am and 90 deg at the car.


osatrik - Aug 28, 2006 2:59 am

SW ridge

In 1967 my girl friend's brother (my future brother-in-law) and I approached the mountain from the road to the east, crossed the mouth of the crater to the SW ridge, and scrambled as high as we felt safe.


cascadetraveler - Aug 14, 2006 4:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 1997

A late report/ excellent climb  Sucess!

WE camped at the crater ditch trailhead above todd lake. we spent a cool night out under the stars and awoke to a crisp clear morning. We made excellent time to the eastern edge of green lakes basin. we then headed towards northwest ridge. we gained the ridge headed upwards until we hit the 10 foot cliff band that requires some bouldering skills or in are case a fixed line set to overcome the obstacle. we then set another rope along the ramp to the summit for some extra security for are group. I really enjoyed this one, a cool looking mountain with spectacular views and some rock climbing as a bonus.


Turbo - Aug 14, 2006 2:03 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2006

Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge  Sucess!

It was probably a bit foolish, but my three climbing partners and I summitted this one just after midnight. We climbed together all summer and because of this late night summit we dubbed ourselves the 'Midnight Mountaineers.' Slept on a small level spot a few hundred feet below the summit and awoke to a spectacular view of the Three Sisters and the Black Crater forest fire that was burning near Sisters Oregon at the time of our climb.


awilsondc - Jul 31, 2006 5:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2006

Route Climbed: NW Ridge via Todd Lake TH  Sucess!

Arrived at Green Lakes TH at 2:00 only to find it was closed for bridge installation. We decided to take the Todd Lake Trail as our alternate route which added 2.5 miles to the hike. We arrived at Green Lakes and set up camp at the furthest camp site (#28) and then began to scramble up the NW ridge. Once we reached the summit block I first looked right along the ledge for an easy route up. I didn't like it, so I looked left and found a pretty easy class 3/4 climb to the summit on the north side. We made the summit just as the sun was setting over the Three Sisters. After a few moments of enjoying the sunset, we descended via the west face scree fields. We finished the last 2 miles or so back to camp under one headlamp between the two of us. Great climb and great views from the summit.


Pawkala - May 19, 2006 12:36 am Date Climbed: May 16, 2006

South West Ridge Ski  Sucess!

Drove to west parking lot of Mount Bachelor and slept. Woke to glorious weather and firm snow. Left at 6:30 am and had a great ski tour in. The snow was soft enough by the time we got to the mountain to pack the skis and kick steps all the way up. Had great snow for the first half of the climb and then it turned to a scree climb. Summited by 12:30. Had a great ski down and toured back out in the hot weather and made it to the car just before the thunder storms at 4pm. GPS stated that the total distance was just shy of 6 miles each way. Make sure to take all the navagation tools you can, especially when there is still snow on the ground. Great trip.


cjwhat - Aug 19, 2005 2:24 am

Route Climbed: Northwest ridge Date Climbed: August 15, 2005  Sucess!

Followed group led by Emily. I was skeptical at first, but after exploring every possibility I concluded she actually knew the way. Brian_Jenkins told me it was easier than I thought. I was skeptical of that, too, but he was right. Parked at USFS Rd #380 Broken Top trailhead.

Bob Bolton

Bob Bolton - Aug 9, 2005 3:27 pm

Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: August 7, 2005  Sucess!

See Karl Helser's report below. Karl, it was a pleasure to get better acquainted! Don and Ardith, it was great to finally climb something together. Let's do it again! -Bob

Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Aug 8, 2005 3:41 pm

Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: August 7th 2005  Sucess!

I was honored to be able to summit this peak with a couple of real pros & veterans of Summit Post. Bob Bolton (RFBolton) and Don Nelson accompanied by his lovely girlfriend Ardith. We camped the night before, near and at the trailhead off of FR380/370. Four miles from the trailhead we took a scramble route straight towards the saddle in the northwest ridge bypassing the eastern shores of Green lakes. Once on the ridge the views of the surrounding area were awesome. (They were down below also.) We hit the summit block at about 11:00AM, leaving the trailhead at about 7:15AM. We believe we followed Brian Jenkins route up to the summit. Took a bit to find but once we found the route we were up in no time. We scree skied the descent down the western slope and scrambled back to the trail. Great day, excellent weather, and truly awesome company.

mtnsavy - Jun 21, 2005 2:07 am

Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: 2000  Sucess!

5.1?? The rock step is pretty solid and more in the realm of 4th Class climbing.

Dennis Poulin

Dennis Poulin - Dec 29, 2004 10:44 pm

Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: 17 August 2002  Sucess!

I climbed the Northwest Ridge on a beautiful day. The short scramble up the summit block was overrated, just be careful about kicking rocks down on other climbers.

K2McKay - Nov 22, 2004 6:54 pm

Route Climbed: As high into the bowl as there was snow Date Climbed: 8/12/04

Hiked into the bowl cause it had been a while since we had made any turns. Snow was good and had plenty to ski most the way down the bowl. Probably was able to make it up to about 8500 or so. Tons of little rocks on the snow from the surrounding cliffs and we had to slamon around all of those.


Andinistaloco - Aug 30, 2004 3:19 am

Route Climbed: NW ridge Date Climbed: 11/2003  Sucess!

Good climb for winter, and a great summer climb if you don't have a full day. Watch the rock, though... it's pretty lousy. There are some incredible spires on the way up - I'd definitely like to go back and try some of them!


hkutuk - Aug 9, 2004 11:39 am

Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: August 8, 2004  Sucess!

This was a nice relaxing day climb with the best views of the Sisters area. There was one move on the nose that we protected, although going to the left of it would have been easier. Thanks to the early start had the summit to ourselves, but saw many people going up as we were heading down.

Don Nelsen

Don Nelsen - Jul 27, 2004 1:00 am

Route Climbed: Nw ridge Date Climbed: Sept. 21, 1979  Sucess!

My first summit of Broken Top and my second cascade volcano summit of many to come. Left Green Lakes camping area late afternoon after backpacking in for a weekend in the wilderness. With climbing buddies Dave, Scott, Rob and John we summited the north peak enjoying perfect weather and fantastic views. There had been a hard freeze a couple of days earlier so there were no mosquitoes anywhere. Fell in love with this most beautiful area of the cascades.


wolf - Feb 26, 2004 12:05 pm

Date Climbed: July 1985  Sucess!

Broken top afforded some excellent views and bouldering opportunites. In late summer the summit can be reached without any gear save for a good pair of boots.


waspee - Dec 11, 2003 5:47 am

Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: 28 August 2003

Went up to Green Lakes, then up to the saddle, and reached the summit block. It is a little exposed and my partner didn't feel confortable at all. So we didn't summit. We had a really nice lunch on the 'terrace' then hiked back down. It was a beautiful sunny day but there were lots of smoke clouds in the distance.

I'll go there again I think.


eckdoerry - Nov 28, 2003 12:29 pm

Route Climbed: 11 Oclock Couloir Date Climbed: Dec. 29, 2000  Sucess!

An excellent winter climb, albeit quite demanding due to the long approach --- how hard this is depends entirely on the terrain. I attempted this once before in 1998 and we tried to climb the 3oclock couloir, but were stymied at the saddle by nasty double cornices all the way up the summit rim.

The 11oclock couloir is gorgeous --- the nicest winter route in my opinion. Great views, exciting aesthetic climbing, and a super summit.


cluck - Oct 6, 2003 2:56 pm

Route Climbed: North Ridge - Direct Finish Date Climbed: October 4, 2003  Sucess!

Last time I climbed this I eyed an alternate finish from the North Ridge that looked interesting. After climbing the 8 foot crack, the standard finish is to traverse south around the rock ridge and back to the summit. But, this time I decided to try to continue directly up the NorthWest Ridge all the way to the summit.

This variation is listed as route 26A in Jeff Thomas' Oregon High. It's about 50 feet of 5.4 climbing on pretty solid (at least compared to the rest of the mountsin) rock. The northwest ridge peters out into a 6 foot wide rock fin after the first crack and this is where the standard route begins traversing to the south. Instead, we roped up and climbed straight up the rock fin directly to the summit. The climbing is quite nice with great exposure off both sides of the fin. It protects OK and the rock is generally sound.

Although the climbing is only 1 short pitch, it's more interesting than the standard traverse. I recommend it to anyone looking for a slightly more adventurous option.

Viewing: 1-20 of 91
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