Page Type Page Type: Area/Range
Location Lat/Lon: 43.20905°N / 5.44742°E
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Elevation: 492 ft / 150 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

When people talk about "Les Calanques" it actually covers an area that is almost 20 kms long with several climbing sites. Between Marseille and Cassis the Mediterranean coast forms one of the most beautiful limestone massif of the world, wild and well preserved, despite being very close to the civilization: the Calanques de Marseille. All the Calanques are truly amazing, a unique environment, breathtaking and world famous!   A spectacular area and a magical place to practise many outdoor activities, including hiking and above all climbing. The white limestone of the Calanques overlooks narrow fjords and a blue and turquoise sea with unmatched aesthetics and offers unforgettable sensations.  

Main sectors are:

Calanque d'En-Vau
La Guardiole
Calanque de Sugiton / Luminy
CALANQUE DE MORGIOU
Calanque de Sormiou
Melette
Les Goudes
Marseilleveyre


The great thing is that you can climb almost all year long, apart from summer where it can be hot and closed for fire risks.
The landscape is stunning, as you climb right above the blue Mediterranean Sea !

The Calanques are also famous for two of its most passionated climbers :
Gaston Rebuffat and Georges Livanos (known as "Le Grec").

Map of Les Calanques




Staying... and Getting There

Calanque de Morgiou 06


- WHERE TO STAY :
The main place to stay is located in the small town of Cassis (20 kms East of Marseille). There you can find shops and petrol easily.
The camp site is :

Camping Les Cigales
Avenue de la Marne
13260 CASSIS
Tel 04 42 01 07 34

It would be a mistake to stay in Marseille as there can be traffic jams (second biggest city in France after Paris... 1 million people),
and there is no camp site. However the good thing about is that it is onyl 3 hours away from Paris by train.



- HOW TO REACH CALANQUE DE MORGIOU :
From Cassis, take road D559 west towards Marseille.
After crossing a beautiful plateau, you will drive down to the East side of Marseille.
When reaching the "Mazargue" round-about, turn left and follow signs saying "Baumettes". After a couple of kilometers you will then follow signs saying "Morgiou".
Keep driving on a winding road up to the Calanque.
About 30 minutes from the camp site by car.


Site Description & Essential Gear

Calanque de Morgiou 02


 

Calanque de Morgiou 03


 

Calanque de Morgiou 04


In Les Calanques, the entire rock is limestone.
It's not always perfect as there can be bushes and rotten rock, but usually the rock quality is very good.
Routes can be up to 150m high. A few are long horizontal traverse.
To descend, sometimes you have to abseil, sometimes you can walk down on the other side.

As there can several pitches the usual climbing gear is need :
2x 50m ropes
Quickdraws and sling
Abseiling equipment
Helmet (highly recommended !!)
Sun cream and lots of water in summer (undoubtedly)

Here is a description of the climbing areas in Calanque de Morgiou :



____Climbing Area____ ____Routes____ ____Pitches____ ____Level____
Vallon des Escampons 20 1 5b to 6c
Parc des Baumettes 106 1 2b to 7a+
Le Prado 15 1 4b to 6b
Degun 21 1 5a to 6b+
Roche Percée 21 1 5a to 6c
Crêt de St Michel 75 1 to 5 2b to 7a
L'Abri Côtier 21 1 3c to 7a+
Les Cabanons 39 1 to 3 4c to 8a
Le Renard 24 1 to 7 3b to 6c+
Le Canceou 3 1 to 6 2b to 6b+
Anse du Figuier 23 1 to 2 3b to 7a
La Voile 9 1 to 10 2b to 7b
Cap Morgiou 45 1 to 8 3a to 8a






Meteo

Meteo France > Cassis

 

Guidebooks and maps

New Guidebook Escalade Les Calanques Calanques Escalade guidebook Guidebook Escalade Les Calanques Alpes du Sud and Provence Guidebook Les Calanques map

 

“Escalade Les Calanques” by Andrè Bernard - Gilles Bernard - Pierre Clarac – Hervè Guigliarelli – Bernard Privat Ed. Nota Bene

"Alpes du Sud - Provence" by Hervé Galley - Editions Olizane

“Calanques Escalade” by Jean Luois Fenouil and Cèdric Tassan – Ed. VTopo

Map: "Les Calanques de Marseille a Cassis" 3615 IGN 1:15.000



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

Provence rangesAreas & Ranges