Diffwys

There are two summits known as Diffwys in the Rhinogydd. Those familiar with the range, as well as the nuances of the Welsh language, should not be surprised, since the name is reserved for those places that are considered to be wild, wastelands, high, steep, huge or awful. For the early inhabitants of this part of Meirionnydd, the Rhinogydd had all of these properties, and little has changed to this day.

The Diffwys of this page is the larger of the two, in fact, at 750 metres above sea level it’s the range’s second highest summit, and is located in the southern half of the range. Most will choose to climb the mountain with a combined trip to Y Llethr, and doing so creates a good, long hike, which boasts spectacular and diverse views of the surrounding countryside. For the geology nerds out there (of which this author is certainly one), among the highlights of this hike are the views of the Caerdeon Syncline, which is exposed on the mountain’s north western flank and is best viewed from the Crib-y-rhiw ridge.

Where Diffwys really shines though, is in what it offers to the rock and winter climber. Strung out along the shores of Llyn Bodlyn, a lake which had its waters raised by the construction of a dam in 1894, are the north facing crags of Craig Bodlyn, which at their western end, are higher than any other in the range. This is not a crag for those who prefer their climbing to be easily accessible; there’s no quick way to this spot, with prospective climbers faced with a choice of a long flat approach or a short steep one. Whichever option they choose, they will have to work up a sweat to complete it. Those who do make the effort will be rewarded with some of the longest grit routes in Britain as well as a large number of single pitch lines to boot. Don’t expect an easy time here though, there is only one route graded below Very Severe while the hardest line comes in at a very respectable E7 6c. Craig Bodlyn also holds the only recorded winter climbs in the Rhinogydd, though owing to the crag’s low altitude and close proximity to the sea, only the onset of a new ice age is likely to yield anything approaching favourable conditions.

Rock Climbing

The climbing on Diffwys is split between two principle crags, namely Graig Bodlyn and the smaller Llawllech. Craig Bodlyn is by far the more complex of the two and is itself split into a number of smaller crags and buttresses.

Unless otherwise stated, routes are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers’ Club Guide to Meirionnydd, so for full descriptions, please refer to this source. The Climbers’ Club have also produced a free pdf, which provides details of first ascents recorded after 2001: download it here.

Please be aware that the Rhinogydd is a trad climbing venue and bolting is strictly prohibited. Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Hard Severe (HS) or above. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available: download it here.

Route Symbols:

A so-so route, neither good nor bad. Not unpleasant unless otherwise stated. A good route which is definitely worth a climb. A very good route, one of the best on the crag and well worthy of attention. An excellent route, one of the best in the area, and probably in Britain too.

No Restrictions Used to indicate that there are currently no restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. Restrictions Used to indicate that there are restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. See the Red Tape and Access Section for more details.

Craig Bodlyn

Craig Bodlyn (SH 649 236) is the mother of all Rhinog crags and is fittingly described in the Climber's Club guide to the area as “a sort of Frêney amongst Fontainbleau”. It has in many places now succumb to the tendrilled advances of the local vegetation, and those wishing to climb some of the older routes may need to include a pair of secateurs on the rack. Fear not though, for there are some clean walls to be found here too, and one of particular interest is the relatively recently developed Silver Screen.

The Silver Screen

The Silver Screen is the most leftward of Craig Bodlyn's crags, located some 100 metres east of the lake, nestled in a small bay a little above the valley floor. It is home to steep and brutish climbing.