Beautiful Weather on the approach hike from White River Campground. Weather reports were saying that Sunday was going to be super craptacular. So instead of having a rest/acclimation/rehearsal day Brody, Jason, and myself decided to push the summit bid up a day. The lack of rest and team unfamiliarity showed with a "late" start at 0215 from a rough and windy night at Schurman. Routefinding was a minor issue initially. The crevasses were opening and boot tracks would disappear on icy surfaces. I punched through a couple of shaky snowbridges but was able to jump and cross most crevasses easily. Biggest problem was pace-setting. I would try to force the pace in an effort to make up time only to be told to slow it up. It was frustrating but we were making progress and the weather seemed to be holding. At about 12,800 we came upon a climber who had called it a day. He was part of a crew who had passed us earlier. As we were talking to him we noticed the clouds coming from the southside over to our side were getting denser. An early summit party came down as we progressed to 13,000 feet and the final big traverse at the bergschrund. They gave us the layout of the distances saying it was at least another 3 hours of effort. Myself and Jason were up for it. Brody was satisfied with how far we had come and wanted to turn back. With Brody gone, Jason was not comfortable going up with no real rescue training or experience. We turned back as the clouds began to envelop us slowly. By the time we reached the top of the Corridor we were in calm whiteout conditions. We couldn't see Schurman until we were right on top of it. Got nicely soaked on the descent as the rain poured in. Good route. It'll be easier the next time around. CW6
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