Epitaph, 5.10+, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Tombstone is an iconic feature near the border of BLM and Canyonlands National Park.  The local guide includes it in the Lost World Butte area.  I have climbed the Road Not Taken on Lost World Butte, a very unique route by the way, but these two features, Tombstone and Lost World, are two different formations. 

Tombstone has a variety of routes posted up on MP.com and only two are published in the local guide, but the only route published as going free as of 2024 is Epitaph.  What Epitaph lacks in clean rock, it makes up for in adventure and location.  Tombstone sits out in the middle of the desert with several adjoining buttes, Sphinx and Canyon Point.  I have witnessed full on rage parties at the base of Tombstone.  Its remoteness attracts such activity no doubt.  In any regard, the summit of Tombstone gives up amazing 360-degree views of the Henrys, La Sals’ and surrounding vast desert landscape. 

Epitaph is a published as a three-pitch route that is easily climbed in two.  Both pitches offer stout 5.10+ cruxes on soft rock that have gotten harder as more holds break.  As late as 2024, by 2^nd broke off a large piece moving off of the top of the first pitch belay.  The mental crux is by far the start.  To lead it clean takes a bit of courage to say the least as it is made up of your standard entrada mud.  But once into a finger crack above the jumbled start, you follow the same corner to the top of the formation.  Another crux is essentially the last few moves of the 2^nd pitch which sports an arm bar mantle that is awkward and physical.  It is easy to continue to the sub summit from there where you can unrope to scramble to the true summit.  There are three rap options.  Rap the route with three single 70m rope raps, rap Family Plot with three single 70m rope raps or rap from the sub summit with one double 70m rope rap (which is by far the cleanest (avoiding cracks and corners) as well as features the most solid anchor.  I am pretty sure double 60’s would make it, but have not tested that notion to be exact.  Some folks posting up on MP.com would have you bring many #3s and #2s.  In reality, #4’s are more critical than either of the other sizes.  I might have placed a single #2 and used three each of #3’s and #4’s and that worked well.  I also drug up a #5 and #6 of which the #5 was the most useful.  As assortment of finger pieces are needed for the cruxy start.

Drive pass the Lone Mesa campground and turn right on a sandy road heading for the Dublinkly Well.  After approximately six miles and crossing a cattle guard, the Dripping Springs sandy road is marked with a sign (2024).  Turn left on this road and Tombstone is straight ahead.  Park below the east face and cross two fences heading north, the 2^nd one a barbed wire fence. Then head up a sand dune to the shoulder of the Sphinx and head back south on the land bridge to the base of the north arete of Tombstone.  The route is obvious and you can make out the new (2024) rap at the top of the first pitch.  The bolted start to the left is Family Plot. 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 105’-5.10+/ Start at the right side of the arete off of the saddle at the north end of Tombstone.  You can place gear straight up or to the left. Either way, the rock is bad until you enter the finger crack above the mud.  The biggest detractor from this route is its start on chossy rock with suspect pro.  The finger crack above is bomber.  Follow the crack as it gets wider over several bulges pulling a fragile roof to a portion of the corner that is hands.  Continue up the corner as it turns to #3’s and #4’s.  Climb through several bulges or roofs.  A modern (2024) and well-done anchor is on the right wall.  The guide and MP.com reference the old fixed hardwear out left atop pitch one.  The modern fixed hardwear rap is a hanging belay.

2^nd/3^rd Pitches- 150’-5.10+/ Both MP.com and the local guide call these two independant pitches, but it makes zero sense to stop at the old (2024) sloping rap station.  Rather continue to the large flat sub summit at approximately 150’ total.  Start out the climbing by enjoying the #3 corner.  Pull through one bulge or roof to the base of a slot chimney that is slightly overhanging at the top.  This is the 2^nd crux of the route.  Near the top is loose sand and holds have broken.  The crux is swinging your feet up to the #4 crack and then making an armbar mantle out the top to the sloping ledge where an old (2024) rap station is that aims east towards the route Family Plot.  Continue up much easier ground via a low angled hand/fist crack to a chasm that you stem across which leads to the sub summit plateau.  Belay off of modern (2024) bolts on top. 

Descent

The actual summit is also a large flat surface.  Scramble to the top and scramble back down.  There is an old (2024) rap up there that raps back down to the parking area.  To rap back to your packs, return to the sub summit and slide down the cord from the bolted belay to the rap belay, again, a modern (2024) fixed rap.  With double 70m ropes, you can rap to the ground from here.  The guide says 70m ropes, but double 60m ropes might make it as well.  It is close.  With a single 70m rope, you can rap to the old sloped rap you passed at the top of pitch two.  Then rap east to the mid anchor, with a stance, on Family Plot.  Then one final rap to the ground. 

Essential Gear

Single from #.2 to #6.  Triple #3's to #4’s.  MP.com suggest 5 or more #3’s which is not necessary at all.  They also talk up #2’s which are not really helpful on this route.  A #6 is not necessary, but easily placed.  A few off-set cams would be helpful for sewing up the precarious start.  The route is north facing offering shade all day.