Extensive Homology

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.72970°N / 72.0314°W
Additional Information Route Type: Ice Climbing
Seasons Season: Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: WI5
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 2
Additional Information Grade: III
Sign the Climber's Log


Extensive Homology WI5 III

Extensive Homology lies on the south end of the pisgah cliffs right of the area classic 20 below zero gully. For someone who is looking to sample thin difficult ice, Extensive Homology is a good choice. As a bonus, you get another fat Willougby Pillar on pitch 2

Getting There

Park on the side of Rte 5 at the south end of Lake Willoughby. Hike along the road until you are under the slide path of 20 Below Zero and Glass Menagerie. Hike up the slide path to the base of Glass Menagerie and jog right 100' to EH.

Route Description

Pitch 1 usually forms up by January, but it can be very fickle. Typically it will form a thin smear right of Glass Menagerie. This smear will take stubbies at best and is usually around WI4+/5-. There will be a few vertical sections and some mandatory runouts over marginal gear. Keep your head on tight for this pitch. 150'

Belay on screws at the big ice ledge halfway up the face.

Pitch 1:
Extensive Homology WI5 III - Pitch 1

Pitch 2 climbs fat columns and pillars to the trees above. It can be as hard as WI5 if you head straight up the longest column above, but you can usually find a way through at WI4/4+. 150'

Essential Gear

A typical willoughby column rack of 9-10 scews, but go heavy on the stubby screws. You may even want to consider a spectre or two as well.

Equipment for vthreading if you plan to rappel.

External Links

See neice.com for current conditions



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