The Last Gentleman

Page Type
Route
Location:
Vermont, United States, North America
Route Type:
Ice Climb
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
WI5 IV

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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The Last Gentleman
Created On: Oct 14, 2005
Last Edited On: Oct 14, 2005

Approach


Park off of rte 5 directly below the Last Gentleman Amphitheater. Climb directly uphill to the base of the climb. The climb can't be missed. A football field wide flow climbing 600 feet to the trees.

Route Description


Pitch 1: The direct line, which is not always in, takes you up thin ice with shoddy gear over granite slabs to a leftward traverse which ends below the crux curtain. An alternate first pitch climbs the first part of the Promenade to the right and traverses along the ledge mentioned above to the base of the crux of the Last Gentleman. WI3+/4- 190'
Pitch 2: Tackle the 60' of WI3 to the 60' vertical curtain. Once over that, climb another 25' vertical curtain and 50' more WI3 ice to a belay. WI5 190'
Pitch 3 : Climb sustained towers of WI4/4+ ice to the trees. Weaving around will reduce the difficulty to only WI4 but will probably require doing this pitch in two pitches. WI4/4+ 200'

Descend via one tree rap and two thread rappels or walk up and right to the long walkoff south of the tablets.

Essential Gear


Full willoughby column rack (9-11 screws) with stubbies for the direct start or a slection of lost arrows and knifeblades for the promenade traverse. Tools for Vthreads and webbing.

Miscellaneous Info


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