Stormy Monday

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.72970°N / 72.0314°W
Additional Information Route Type: Ice Climb
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: WI 4+ III
Sign the Climber's Log


Park below the Last Gentleman amphithether on a pullout off route 5. Hike up the long slope leading to the base of the cliffs below the Last Gentleman. Go left passing Whos Who in OUter Space, and China Shop on your right. Continue below a big rock buttress until you see a narrow snow gully snaking up on your right through bushy ledges. Climb this for 300' (rock slabs and scree under the snow make it dangerous in the early season). You will arrive at a snow terrace with a pillar right above you. This is Brinton's Folly (WI4 1 pitch) go far right on the terrace around another rock buttress to a big flow in a massive corner. This is Stormy Monday.

Route Description

Pitch 1 : Traverse onto the ice from the left with big air under your heels. Climb 200' of WI3+ ice up to a bolt and pin belay on a spacious ledge below the crux pitch.
Pitch 3: CLimb the crux column straight up off the belay. Can be very steep even overhanging early in the season. Continue up easier WI3/3+ ice to the top above the column. WI4+ 160'

Descend by rapping from the trees back to the pin and bolt anchor on the ledge. From there rap to the snow terrace in one 200' rappel. Rap the snow gully for three single rope raps if it is sketchy otherwise downclimb it.

Essential Gear

Willoughby Ice rack 9-11 screws. Maybe a few shorties.

Miscellaneous Info

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