Follow approach trail from parking area - 15-20 minutes - to the east side of Upper Spire.
Start on 5.9 lieback crack to 5.9 finger crack, up into a left-facing dihedral. In this part I had to smear, stem, lieback and / or chimney (well, lean into the right face) - pretty strenuous and since I only followed it with a couple of takes it probably wasn't the best I've ever done :)
After 150' climbing eases to 5.8. 40' of that leads to a spacious ledge with chains / bolts. Rap off west side to descend.
SuperTopo recommends cams in the 0.6-2" range (2 each)
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